Fiber classification and fabric types
Fiber classification and fabric types and characteristics
Introduction to fiber knowledge
1) Fiber
People often refer to fibrous materials whose length is more than a thousand times larger than their diameter and have only a certain degree of flexibility as fibers. The thickness and length of fibers are important factors that determine the feel of fabrics. Thick fibers give the fabric a hard, stiff, thick feel and are resistant to compression. The shorter the fiber, the rougher the fabric, and the easier it is to pill, but it has a rough style. The fine fibers give the fabric a soft, thin feel. The longer the fiber, the smoother the yarn and the less pilling it will have.
2) Types of fiber
A: Natural fiber (obtained directly from nature)
Plant fibers: such as cotton and linen.
Animal fiber: Hair obtained from animals, such as wool.
Taken from the silk spun by animals, such as silk.
B: Synthetic fiber (obtained through chemical treatment and injection spinning.)
Such as: acrylic, polyester, nylon, etc.
Fibers can only become clothing fabrics after being woven, and the first step is to spin into yarn.
Types and characteristics of fabric
■Cotton plain weave/plain cloth
70% of the fabric is cotton plain weave, which is a regular variety in stores
Fabrics woven with plain weave (warp and weft yarns are interwoven every other yarn) are called plain weave fabrics. The surface is smooth and the front and back sides have the same appearance. Different styles are formed due to the thickness of the yarn count and the tightness of the weave. Old-fashioned cotton generally has a thicker yarn count (traditional hand-made patchwork is more suitable) and has a simple, natural and matte appearance, while new high-count cotton has a finer yarn count, is woven very tightly, and has a smoother appearance and feel.
Traditional handmade patchwork is mostly done with plain cloth (especially plain old-fashioned cotton cloth)
■Jacquard
It refers to the strip or flower-like concave and convex patterns woven on the fabric. It is divided into large jacquard and small jacquard. Large jacquard is a flower-like pattern, and small jacquard is a simple geometric pattern such as strips or plaid. The cost of jacquard should be higher than that of dobby. Jacquard gives people a more gorgeous feeling and the price is higher.
■Grey fabric
Also known as white fabric, cloth woven with unbleached cotton yarn without bleaching, dyeing or printing is collectively called unbleached fabric. Generally called gray cloth
■Washed cloth
It is a fabric that has been treated with a special dyeing and finishing process to give the fabric a slightly wrinkled washed style. The raw materials of washed cloth include pure cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester filament, etc. Washed cloth feels soft, dimensionally stable, comfortable to wear, and has slight wrinkles in appearance. Mainly used as outerwear, suits, shirts, pants, pajamas, etc.
■Poplin
It is a kind of plain weave cloth, also woven with plain weave. The warp and weft yarns are all fine special yarns, which belong to fine and high warp-density fabrics. They have the characteristics of smooth, stiff and cool, and can be used for making shirts. (It is a widely used cotton fabric, not silk)
Different from ordinary plain cloth, the ratio of warp density to weft density is generally 1.8 to 2.2:1. Since the warp density is significantly greater than the weft density, a diamond-shaped grain pattern composed of raised parts of the warp yarns is formed on the surface of the fabric. To weave poplin fabrics, pure cotton or polyester-cotton fine yarn is commonly used. According to the different yarns used, it is divided into yarn poplin, half-thread poplin (with strands in the warp direction), and thread poplin (with strands in both warp and weft directions). According to different spinning processes, it is divided into carded poplin and combed poplin. In terms of weaving patterns, there are hidden-stripe hidden-lattice poplin, satin-stripe satin-lattice poplin, jacquard poplin, colorful-stripe and colorful-lattice poplin, flash poplin, etc. According to the printing and dyeing processing conditions of natural poplin gray fabric, there are bleached poplin, variegated poplin and printed poplin. All kinds of poplin fabrics have the characteristics of clean and smooth surface, fine texture, full grain, soft luster, soft and waxy feel. Poplin is a major variety of cotton. Mainly used for shirts, summer clothes and daily clothes
■Balinese/glass yarn
Also known as voile, a thin and transparent plain weave fabric. The characteristics of glass yarn are: the warp and weft are made of fine combed and strongly twisted yarn. The density of warp and weft in the fabric is relatively small. Due to the “fine” and “thin”, coupled with the strong twist, the fabric is thin and transparent, with clear holes and smooth texture. Light, transparent, breathable and smooth to the touch, it can be used on curtains or summer dresses
■Cotton gauze card
Yarn card is a kind of khaki, which is a twill fabric. According to the warp and weft yarns used, the varieties are divided into line card (warp and weft yarns are even strands), half-line card (warp strands, weft single yarn), yarn card (warp and weft yarns) All are single yarn).
The line card is made of 2/2 right-hand diagonal weave, with obvious twill patterns on both the front and back sides. It is also called a double-sided card;
The half-line card is woven with a 3/1 right bias weave, and the yarn card is woven with a 3/1 left bias weave.
Half-line cards and yarn cards are both single-sided cards. The raw materials used in khaki mainly include pure cotton, polyester cotton, etc. This kind of fabric is tight and thick, with obvious lines, strong and durable.
■Yan-dyed fabric
It refers to the type of cloth woven from dyed yarn. Usually the warp and weft threads are different colors. For example, the longitude threads are in red and the weft threads are in white. The result is a lighter pink
The advantage of yarn-dyed fabrics is that the yarn is dyed first and then woven into cloth. Its color fastness is better than that of ordinary printed and dyed fabrics, and it is less likely to fade during washing
■Chambray<brIt is made of two sets of warp yarns (ground warp and pile warp) and a set of weft yarns with a double-layer structure. After cutting the pile, two pieces of fabric with the same plushness are obtained. It has the characteristics of smooth suede, long, straight and plump hair, soft and fluffy feel, thick and elastic texture. Plush usually uses cotton thread as the ground warp and weft yarn, and only wool yarn is used for the wool warp. It can be divided into plain color, floral pattern, printing, jacquard and other varieties. Suitable for winter women's clothing, children's clothing, clothing linings, collars, hats and sofas, etc.
4. Camel hair
Camel hair is also called camel hair. It is a knitted brushed product. It is named after the wool is dyed in camel color. It is woven into ground cloth with cotton yarn, woven into woolen yarn into suede, and is brushed and raised to form plush. It has the characteristics of soft velvet body, plump velvet surface, good stretchability, warmth and comfort. Suitable for making various linings for clothes, hats and shoes. However, when cutting, you should pay attention to the direction of the camel hair to avoid improper splicing and affecting the appearance. Common camel hair varieties include: Meisu camel hair, Huasu camel hair, Tiaozi camel hair, etc.
■Old homespun cloth
Old Coarse Cloth (Lu Brocade)
Pure cotton handmade textiles have a strong local flavor and distinctive national characteristics. In today’s society, which advocates green and returns to nature, its pure cotton texture, hand-woven fabrics, ethnic patterns, ancient folk crafts and other characteristics are particularly prominent. precious. The weaving process of hand-woven coarse cloth products is extremely complex, from picking cotton threads to woven fabrics through ginning, elastic patterning, spinning, threading, sizing and dyeing, chaotic threads, falling threads, warp threads, brushing threads, harness making, and weaving. There are 72 processes, large and small, such as laying, pulling out healds, hoisting, bolting, weaving, and weaving. It can produce more than 1,990 colorful patterns with 22 basic color threads, which can be called ever-changing and ingenious. The artistic conception of hand-woven cloth patterns is reflected by the interweaving of various colored threads into various geometric figures. The surface is not a specific image of things. It forms a unique pattern through the repetition, parallelism, continuity, spacing, contrast and other changes of abstract patterns. The rhythm and rhyme of the poem reflect the twists and turns of life, making it more artistically charming. Hand-woven coarse cloth products mainly have the following characteristics: green and natural, environmentally friendly and healthy, soft texture, breathable and sweat-absorbent, thick to the touch, comfortable on the skin, warm in winter and cool in summer, antistatic, anti-mite and itchy, tireless, regulates metabolism, and effective defense Features such as ultraviolet rays have once again become a new fashion that people are chasing
■Knitted fabrics
Divided into warp knitting and weft knitting
Warp knitting uses multiple yarns to form loops sequentially along the longitudinal direction (warp direction) of the cloth surface
Weft knitting uses one or more yarns to form loops sequentially along the transverse direction (weft) of the department
Weft knitted fabrics can be formed with at least one yarn, but in order to improve production efficiency, multiple yarns are generally used for knitting; while warp knitted fabrics cannot be formed with one yarn, one yarn It can only form a Lian-shaped object composed of one coil.
All weft knitted fabrics can be separated into threads in the opposite direction of knitting, but warp knitted fabrics cannot.
Warp knitted fabrics cannot be knitted by hand.
Warp knitted fabrics are divided into two major categories:
One is Raschel fabric, which is mainly characterized by larger flower shapes, rough cloth surface and many holes. It is mainly used as decorative fabric;
The second is tricol fabric, which has a fine surface and few colors, but has a high output. It is mainly used for covering fabrics and printed fabrics. This type of fabric is mostly used for chemical fiber filaments, otherwise the production efficiency is extremely low
■Waffle knitted fabric
It is a popular fabric among knitted fabrics. The warp and weft threads of this new product are made of 32S pure cotton yarn, using a convex weave. It is woven on an imported circular knitting machine, and then undergoes various processes such as mercerization, singeing, preshrinking, dyeing, and shaping. Processed. It integrates stretchability, breathability, comfort, softness and artistry, and is superior to other knitted fabrics in terms of texture, style, feel, color and function. The cloth width is 160cm and the colors are rich. Advantages of this cloth
For novel style, beautiful appearance, comfortable wearing, breathable and moisture-absorbing, etc.
■Mesh fabric
Also known as leno, it is a perforated fabric woven with leno tissue. Its characteristic is that two sets of warp yarns, ground warp and twisted warp, are interwoven with a set of weft yarns. Fine special yarns are often used and woven with a smaller density. The raw materials used are often pure cotton, polyester cotton and various chemical fibers. According to different processing, it can be divided into colored leno, bleached leno, printed leno, yarn-dyed leno, jacquard leno, etc. Leno fabric has good air permeability, clear gauze holes, smooth cloth surface and refreshing cloth body. Mainly used as summer clothing, shawls and mosquito nets
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