Oriental Textile’s “out of the circle” reengineering process is “renewed”
“Is the material of this dress renewable?” “Is this handmade product unique?” Recently, young consumers are constantly expressing their opinions in the fashion consumer marketEnvironmental protectionAesthetic love. The reporter noticed that sustainable fashion and Chinese aesthetics have also become the highlight of this year’s fashion show. For example, the Chinese style that appeared in the China International Fashion Week in the spring and summer of 2023 and the medieval street style in the Paris Fashion Week in the spring and summer of 2023. Among them, sustainable recycling technology is particularly popular in traditional textiles, including multi-material fusion fabrics that are disassembled and reconstructed, and “one-cut” T-shirts that advocate zero waste. Lang Qing, associate professor at the China Academy of Art, said that the research direction of deconstructed weaving is in line with the current design trend. It can not only retain systematic fabric research results for the industry, but also provide a thinking path for the integration and development of traditional Chinese fabric techniques and modern fashion, and has a positive impact on young people. In terms of design power, it is also very practical and inspiring.
Popular trends
Traditional textiles develop “regenerative technology”
In April in Hangzhou, in the front hall of the Rong Design Library in Qingshan Village on the outskirts of Hangzhou, a chair that won the only Salone Satellite Design Report Award at the 2012 Milan International Design Week was displayed. “Its name is Gone with the Wind, and it is made from more than 200 pieces of rice paper used to make oil-paper umbrellas,” said Zhang Lei, founder of Rong Design Library. Deconstructing traditional crafts is one of the most important means of empowering modern design, ” The core collection of the museum is handicraft materials and techniques from all over the country. Here they can be carefully classified, preserved, deconstructed, and open to independent designers for free so that they can draw inspiration from traditional Chinese culture.” He explain.
The reporter noticed that the research results of the Rong Design Library 2023 also include the weaving process in the traditional textile industry, showing the extremely creative weaving mechanism, as well as the resulting combination and complexity of reshaping. Finished product. “I never thought that there are so many avant-garde elements hidden in the traditional needlework.” Xiao Tan, a visitor from Shanghai, told reporters while visiting the library.
The reporter learned that in the process of searching for the source of traditional fabrics in Rong Design Library, Jiangnan Buyi and Rong Design Library will jointly launch a five-year “Making the Most of Cloth” project in 2022, focusing on traditional fabrics and process details. Carry out systematic recording, sorting, research and summary.
Zheng Dandan, general manager of public relations of Jiangnan Buyi Enterprise, told reporters that this project starts from the material of “fabric”, excavates various craft details in traditional handicrafts, and brings the possibilities of fabrics through the creative process of manufacturing, remaking and transformation. Deconstruct to exhaustion, and finally achieve “utilization of everything”.
“The popularity of oriental aesthetics is this year’s trend, which reflects the confidence of traditional Chinese culture.” Zheng Dandan said that the consumer groups dominated by the “post-90s” and “post-00s” desire “simple, natural and traditional “Simple, elegant and calm” slow life, traditional handicrafts and fabrics derived from nature, which have condensed thousands of years of oriental traditional wisdom, have become the objects of favor. They use this to express their life attitude and emotional belonging.
In Guangzhou in May, an art exhibition exploring sustainable “beauty” in life has just opened in the south glass box space on the L3 floor of Taikoo Hui. Can the waste in people’s lives be reshaped into art? Can seemingly useless old things have a second life? In this limited-time space created in partnership with Shanghai Fashion Week and the can U sustainable fashion platform, the artistic attempt to integrate recycling and traditional craft reproduction reveals fresh answers.
Standing in front of the work “Xiabu Curtains” by handmade fabric artist Yi Hongbo, Xiao Chen, a senior student in the Department of Design, told reporters that the traditional way of making things is full of a strong sense of history and humanistic warmth, “from dismantling, patchwork, sewing From production to reconstruction, I think the process itself is cool, full of modern independent aesthetics. Deconstructing old things and remaking them into new fashions is not only environmentally friendly but also avant-garde.” Liu Zhishu, a consultant at WGSN, a trend forecasting agency, said, “China’s new generation of consumers have begun to learn to appreciate the Orient. The profound meaning of aesthetics.” If a brand wants to attract current and future major consumer groups, it must learn to graft traditional skills, the essence of culture, Zen aesthetics and natural elements into modern products, spaces and appliances. and lifestyle.
Uncovering the secret of “regeneration technology”
These inspirations come from traditional “recycled craftsmanship”. How do they show their “skills” on fabrics? The reporter used three typical examples to reveal the secrets of regeneration process design.
Pattern texture: extract structure and color, combine with creativity to recreate
A weaving thread can complete countless graphic combinations through simple or complex interlaced planes, such as plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, joint or complex shapes, etc. The different ways of interlacing the longitude and latitude lines in the combination bring a variety of fabric textures and patterns. The above two points are treasures hidden in a seemingly ordinary piece of fabric.
The work “Silk and Dunhuang” from students majoring in dyeing and weaving design at the China Academy of Art.�One of the finished products of this type of deconstruction and regeneration process. The reporter learned that this is a creation inspired by the traditional fabric Adelaide silk. The retro and rich color patterns present a hazy beauty, expressed as concrete geometric patterns, honeysuckle patterns, and caisson patterns, combined with crimson, azure, and stone green. Such bright colors present the beauty of classical Oriental under the bright visual effect. Lang Qing, associate professor and director of the Department of Dyeing, Weaving and Clothing at the School of Design and Art, China Academy of Art, told reporters that the interesting part of this design is that it uses a “hazy effect” that is more in line with modern aesthetics and naturally dilutes the original “overbearing” bright colors of traditional fabrics. It feels less heavy and more artistic, and can be better applied to daily wear scenarios.
Material testing: Combining woven thread and plastic to achieve sustainable recycling
This is based on the perspective of “multiple exploration of fabrics” into the regeneration process, focusing on the integration experiment of different environmentally friendly materials. You must have this question, “Isn’t this just relying on technology to achieve recycling?” No, this is purely from the perspective of structural re-engineering of design elements. For example, “Emotional Texture” is a work by students majoring in dyeing and weaving design at the China Academy of Art.
The designer breaks the blue-green tones usually presented by environmentally friendly materials and instead uses passionate red tones. This is a work that expresses the emotional texture of the fast-paced era. Lang Qing told reporters that at first glance, it looks like sea water, but upon closer inspection, it is delicate and multi-layered. The simple weaving threads are kneaded into rich shapes with the help of different materials, with warm tentacles and full texture. “Sustainable design can go in a more fashionable direction, and the texture under the pattern can be achieved through the experimental integration of more materials.” Lang Qing said.
Tailoring application: use a piece of cloth to the extreme, zero waste garments
According to statistics from the China Circular Economy Association, an average of about 26 million tons of used clothes are discarded every year in our country, with an average of 3-5 pieces thrown away per person every year. Among them, more than 90% of used clothing is directly landfilled or incinerated, causing great waste of resources and environmental problems. The application of tailoring in the recycling process is to explore how to rationally utilize every inch of fabric and make the best use of the cloth.
In the workshop of a “time-honored Chinese brand” in the Guangzhou textile industry that benefits workers and people, the reporter also discovered a unique craft that has been passed down for a long time. It is reported that this is also one of the secrets that can be passed down as a century-old brand: white undershirt, remove the shoulder bone line, cut from a piece of cloth, smooth without piercing the flesh, and reduce the burden on the shoulders. With the changes of the times, the white undershirt, which was traditionally used as underwear, has transformed into a fashionable and versatile white T-shirt.
Industry Observation
Reusing excess fabrics can achieve innovative waste reduction
Since this year, Guangdong has issued a number of documents to promote the high quality development of the textile and apparel industry, proposing to strive to achieve a revenue of 700 billion yuan in the textile and apparel industry by the end of 2025. Build a world-class advanced textile and clothing industry strong province. Different from the previous expressions of “industrial transformation”, the emphasis this year has shifted from “transformation” to “upgrading”. The industry believes that the focus on the transformation and upgrading of traditional industries in recent years is actually a re-examination of the importance of traditional industries, which means higher requirements for the upgrading of the industrial chain, product upgrades, process upgrades and functional upgrades of traditional industries.
In fact, sustainable fashion not only lies in measures such as reducing packaging waste and recycling old clothes on the consumer side, but more importantly, the sustainable development of the entire industry chain, especially on the production side, such as the use of sustainable raw materials, production and transportation Wait for the link. The reporter noticed that when “recycled technology” actively creates a new generation of environmentally friendly aesthetics, the production chain behind the industry also needs to be upgraded simultaneously.
In May, SHEIN announced a partnership with Queen of Raw, a sustainable fashion company, to reuse excess inventory fabrics from other clothing brands, reduce the use of raw materials and new fabric consumption, and become recyclable A global leader in utilization. Xiyin has traced millions of yards of unused second-hand fabrics that meet procurement standards, making it possible to reduce the waste of raw materials in future production.
The “2023 Circular Fashion Industry Trend Report” shows that influenced by environmental awareness, a new generation of consumer groups that represent green life, support environmental protection, love public welfare, and have a sense of social responsibility are becoming the mainstream group of consumers in the circular fashion industry. In the future, sustainable development will become a “new cake” worth exploring in the traditional textile industry. The industry reminds that leading companies should play a more active role as pioneers and forerunners in this process to facilitate high-quality development and upgrading.
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