Jiangsu University of Science and Technology carries out cultural inheritance research on “Chinese traditional mulberry silk weaving skills”
As an outstanding traditional culture of China, traditional Chinese mulberry silk weaving skills were included in the Representative List of Human Intangible Cultural Heritage of the UNESCO Convention for the Protection of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009. The reporter learned on April 11 that in order to gain a deeper understanding of the current status of my country’s traditional mulberry silk weaving skills, Jiangsu University of Science and Technology’s “Chinese Traditional Mulberry Silk Weaving Skills and Cultural Inheritance Research Group” visited Chunming Zhangjing Factory in Danyang City on April 8 to learn more about the traditional mulberry silk weaving skills of Jiangsu Province. Class-level intangible cultural heritage – Teacher Dai Ling, the representative inheritor of velvet weaving skills, studied under the teacher. By learning the operation of wooden looms and velvet carving techniques, he continued to promote the protection and cultural inheritance of traditional Chinese mulberry silk weaving skills.
In the studio of Teacher Dai Ling, the research team learned about the historical origins of velvet weaving technology. Teacher Dai introduced that velvet is named after its origin in Zhangzhou, Fujian, so it is also called “Zhang Rong”. After Zhang velvet was introduced to Jiangning Weaving House in Nanjing during the Ming Dynasty, it was processed and innovated, and developed into Nanjing’s unique carved velvet. Proud of velvet. Velvet was popular in the late Ming Dynasty and early Qing Dynasty. Although it began to decline in the late Qing Dynasty, this weaving technology is still in the ascendant in Danyang, an ancient city with a profound cultural heritage.
Teacher Dai explained to the students the operation of the wooden loom and the basic process of velvet weaving technology. Today’s velvet weaving is still mainly done on wooden looms. During weaving, a steel wire is threaded under the warp, and then a gray cloth covered with steel wires is made, and then the pattern is cut along the steel wire. It is very difficult to make such fine silk fabrics, and the production process is also the most complicated. The probability of defective silk fabrics is high, and once there are defects, it is an irreversible process. Teacher Dai guided the members of the research team to operate the wooden loom together, and collaborated on-site to demonstrate the manual operation of the wooden loom.
Later, Teacher Dai led the students into Danyang Chunming Zhangjing Factory. In the factory, the students learned more comprehensively and carefully about the process of making gray cloth and cutting patterns. Teacher Dai said: “The main reason why this craft is difficult to pass on is that some silk weaving steps cannot be replaced by machines. Each person can only weave 3 meters of cloth per day. The labor cost is high, and it is difficult to find workers who are fully skilled in these operations. .”
Teacher Dai demonstrated the carving skills on the spot, showing the students the meticulousness, dexterity and creativity of the carving skills. The velvet is upright, full of elasticity, and will not fall down for a long time. The satin bottom has velvet flowers that complement each other, have clear layers, and have a strong three-dimensional effect. Such ingenious handicrafts made the students deeply feel the charm of ingenious craftsmanship and cultural heritage.
Yang Yuhang, a 2021 undergraduate student majoring in sericulture from the Sericulture Culture Research Club, said: “This research activity allowed us to deeply feel the charm of traditional Chinese mulberry silk weaving skills and strengthened our confidence in the major we studied. Very Cultural heritage has opened a window for us. Through the light of this window, we can glimpse the charm of intangible cultural heritage, which constantly attracts us to understand intangible cultural heritage, inherit intangible cultural heritage, and innovate intangible cultural heritage, so that intangible cultural heritage can go further and traditional culture can always be It is engraved in our genes.” Zou Jincheng, secretary of the Youth League Committee of the School of Biotechnology, who accompanied the delegation to investigate, said: “Velvet weaving technology is a typical representative of traditional Chinese mulberry silk weaving technology. We should increase popularization and publicity efforts, create a sericulture cultural brand, and combine it with Jiangsu University of Science and Technology’s ‘Sericulture’ educational characteristics develop cultural and creative products and continuously promote the integrated development of culture and tourism.”
The thread continues and the fire is passed from generation to generation. Next, the research team will continue to base on the school’s “sericulture” education characteristics, go to Suzhou, Jiangsu, Hangzhou, Zhejiang and other places to conduct in-depth research, continue to learn and summarize experience, and on this basis, form a practical team to promote and promote intangible cultural heritage. Create a team of teachers engaged in research on the inheritance of skills and culture, build a practical workshop for the inheritance of excellent Chinese traditional culture, and continue to promote the protection and cultural inheritance of traditional Chinese mulberry silk weaving skills.
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