Fabric inspection and testing standards
Fabric inspection and testing standards
1. Overview
The inspection and testing of fabrics is to purchase qualified products and serve for subsequent processing. It is the basis for ensuring normal production and safe shipment, and is the basic link to avoid customer complaints. Only qualified fabrics can better serve customers, and qualified fabrics can only be completed with a complete inspection and testing system.
2. Fabric testing procedures
1. Judgment of color and feel of boat samples
① Color determination
After receiving the ship sample, first cut out an A4 paper-sized fabric sample in the middle of the ship sample, and then take out the standard color of the fabric (standard color definition: the standard color is the color confirmed by the customer, which can be a color sample, PANTONE color card color or the next largest batch of goods) and the first batch of large goods. It is required that the color of this batch of ship samples must be between the standard color and the color of the previous batch of goods to be acceptable, and the color can be confirmed. If there are no pre-batch colors and only standard colors, it needs to be judged based on the standard colors. If the color difference reaches level 4, it is acceptable. Because colors are divided into three primary colors, namely red, yellow and blue. First, look at the color of the ship sample, that is, the difference in color between the standard color and the color of the ship sample. If there is a difference in color and light, one level will be deducted (the color level difference is divided into 5 levels, and level 5 is advanced, that is, the same color). Then look at the depth of the boat sample. If the color of the boat sample is different from the standard color, half a grade will be deducted for every half shade. After combining the color difference and the depth difference, the color difference grade between the ship sample and the standard color is obtained. The light source used when judging the color difference grade is required to meet the customer’s specifications. If the customer does not specify a light source, the D65 light source is used to evaluate the color difference. At the same time, it is required that the light source does not jump under the D65 and TL84 light sources (light jump: refers to the standard color and the sample color producing different changes under different light sources, which is a jump Light source). Sometimes customers use natural light when inspecting goods, and they are required not to use natural light sources. (Natural light: When the weather in the northern hemisphere is fine, the light source from the north window is the natural light source. Note that direct sunlight is prohibited). If there is a phenomenon of jumping light sources, the color will not be confirmed.
② Judgment of hand feel of boat samples
After the ship sample arrives, the standard feel comparison is taken out (the standard feel is the feel sample confirmed by the customer, or the sealed feel sample of the next largest product). The feel comparison is divided into: soft, hard, elastic and thickness. The difference between soft and hard is accepted within plus or minus 10%, the elasticity is within ±10%, and the thickness is also within ±10%.
2. Cylinder difference, edge difference, and match difference
A. Cylinder difference:
Each batch of large goods may be divided into several cylinders. Usually one cylinder of fabric can be made from 700 to 1,300 meters. Cut out the cylinder samples of each cylinder of fabric to the size of A4 paper and place them under the D65 light source of the light box for comparison. Level 5 difference is acceptable. If there is a cylinder difference of 4 levels and the delivery date is tight, it will be confirmed with the salesperson and quality department. After confirmation, the tester will issue a report, indicate the model name, order number, affix a cloth sample (comparison cloth sample), make four copies, and submit one copy to the quality department, production department, sales department, and warehouse for retention, and notify Suppliers should mark the words “A color light” and “B color light” on the outer packaging of bulk goods to avoid mixing them in warehouses or processing plants.
B. Color difference between edges:
The color difference in the edge refers to the color inconsistency between the middle and both sides of the fabric under a width. It usually appears in nylon, nylon Oxford cloth, cotton products, and sometimes appears in the finishing calendering. To determine the edge deviation, first fold the fabric in half, then fold both sides to the middle and place it under the D65 light source of the light box for observation. If the color difference reaches level 4 to 5, it is acceptable. If there is edge deviation, please contact the quality department and production department. After joint confirmation by all departments, the purchasing department will issue four reports, which will be sent to the quality department, production department, purchasing department, and suppliers respectively for retention. The production department will notify the processing factory to prevent border differences and typesetting. Any additional consumption of materials will be borne by the supplier after confirmation by the quality department. Sometimes the color difference is serious and cannot be avoided during the processing of the finished garment. After the finished garment is processed, the color correction company will be notified to perform color correction on the garment. The cost of color correction shall be borne by the supplier. (Note: Regarding the color correction of ready-made clothes, it is not a conventional method. It is prohibited to use it unless necessary.)
C. Match difference:
Before each large batch of goods enters the warehouse, the supplier will provide a strip sample of each roll of fabric (a 10cm wide full-width fabric sample). Fold each strip in the same way as the method for judging the edge difference, and judge it under the D65 light source. If it reaches level 4 to 5, it is qualified. If there is a difference, first classify the strips according to the color separation light, and then work with the quality department After confirmation, the purchasing department will produce four parts of the report and send them to the quality department, production department, warehouse, and purchasing department for retention. At the same time, the supplier is notified to mark “A color light” and “B color light” on the outer packaging, and to indicate the cylinder number to prevent the processing factory from mixing cylinders for color separation during cutting.
The above determination results must be notified to the supplier in writing by fax.
2. Fabric testing:
There are a total of 19 fabric testing items. The testing methods of each item are introduced in detail below:
1. Weight:
Use a sampling knife to take three pieces each from the left, middle and right sides of a ship sample, weigh them on an electronic scale and calculate the average, which is the square gram weight of the fabric. To determine whether it is qualified or not, woven fabrics must not be less than the weight specified in the order, while knitted fabrics or composite fabrics containing knitted fabrics shall refer to the method for judging weight of knitted fabrics.
2.————, Order number———————-
Product name————————————————- ———-
Color——————–, Width—————————–
Weight of the horse——————–, Meter length——————————– –
Level——————–, Cylinder number—————————–
Braid——————–, Fake scissor———————–
Inspector—————–, Date——————————
12. Shrinkage: The scaling and cropping ratio is within 3%.
3. Inspection standards for mesh, loop velvet and jersey fabrics
1. The door width must not be less than the specified ordering requirements (please confirm carefully when the supplier signs the contract). Due to the characteristics of the fabric, according to our company’s regulations, the effective door width is 1.50—1.52 meters. In order to ensure the meter length, it is recommended that the finished door width be as wide as possible. The edge is controlled between 1.55 meters and 1.57 meters.
2. The length of a single horse shall not be less than 35 meters
3. The actual allowable error in piece length shall not exceed 2%
4. A single piece of single roll is allowed to have one joint at most, but seams and unshaped open parts are not allowed, and mixed batches are not allowed.
5. Color difference
1) The center-side difference, left-right side difference and head-to-tail difference shall not be lower than level 4-5;
2) The color difference between each piece of cloth and the standard shall not be less than level 4
6． The weft and slant is controlled according to the first-class product, generally not exceeding 5%, specifically according to relevant national and industry standards
7． Weight control: less than 50g/㎡, controlled within ±5 g/㎡
50—100g/㎡ Control within ±8 g/㎡
More than 100 g/㎡ Control within -10 g/㎡
8. Bursting strength: less than 80 g/㎡ greater than 150 N
Above 80g /㎡ greater than 200 n
9. Color fastness:
Washing fastness: original cloth discoloration 4-5
to change color 3-4
Sweat resistance: original cloth discoloration 4-5
to change color 3-4
Rubbing fastness: Dry rubbing 4
Wet friction 3-4
10. Appearance quality:
For this type of fabric, local defects of less than 0.20 per meter will be accepted as the acceptance standard.
Calculation method: Allowable defects per meter = total number of defects in a single piece of cloth / length of the piece.
No more than 3 holes are allowed per roll.
11. Each horse’s appearance label indicates:
Contract number—————-
of
Product name————————————————- ———-
Color——————–, Width—————————–
Weight of the horse——————–, Meter length——————————– –
Level——————–, Cylinder number—————————–
Braid——————–, Fake scissor———————–
Inspector—————–, Date——————————
12. Shrinkage: The scaling and cropping ratio is within 3%.
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