Three major gaps between domestic chemical fiber fabrics and foreign advanced levels
Three major gaps between domestic chemical fiber fabrics and foreign advanced levels
my country’s imported clothing fabrics are mainly chemical fiber products, accounting for 60%-70% of the total imported fabrics. According to statistics on the fabrics used by 14 typical clothing companies, 70%-85% of cotton, wool, silk and their blended fiber clothing fabrics are domestic fabrics, and 98% of hemp and linen blended clothing fabrics are domestic fabrics. In recent years, with the development of my country’s chemical fiber technology, the import of chemical fiber fabrics has declined year by year, but by 2005, the proportion of imported pure fiber fabrics was still as high as 67.69%. Among them, imported fabrics made of pure polyester filament account for 40%-45%, mostly ultra-fine denier products, and the rest are blended or interwoven chemical fiber fabrics.
The main reason why clothing companies choose imported fabrics is that domestic chemical fiber fabrics have poor quality in five aspects: appearance, feel, defects, drape (formability), and color. Survey and analysis data show that the main part of imported high-end chemical fiber fabrics is polyester differentiated filament fabrics, and a small part is other new chemical fiber fabrics and their blended fiber fabrics, mainly from South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan and other countries or regions. It can be seen that the quality of domestic chemical fiber fabrics is still far behind the international advanced level.
Fiber Gap
Single variety: In developed countries and regions such as Japan, South Korea and Taiwan, the fiber composition of new fabrics has developed to 2-4 types, and as many as 5-6 types of fiber blends. Through changes in fiber structure and fabric structure, Simulation and super-realistic effects have become a development trend. At present, the performance of new chemical fibers in my country is not stable and their applications are not yet widespread. Blended fabrics use an average of 1.3 types of fibers.
Domestic functional fiber single fibers are too thick. Such as moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fiber fibers in 1.5D. It is a comfortable fiber, but its feel and style do not meet the requirements for summer wear.
Domestic chemical fiber printing and dyeing simulation and super-reality are mainly achieved through “alkali reduction”. The “alkali reduction method” has few style changes, serious environmental pollution, and high energy consumption. It is a process that needs to be gradually replaced. The “alkali reduction method” treats ordinary polyester fabrics. The result is that the softness of the fabric is increased and the surface aurora is improved. However, the disadvantage is that the style is single, the formability of the fabric when made into clothing is reduced, the fabric is rich and fluffy, and the surface is slippery or slippery. The feeling of pleasure is still not good. Domestic polyester fabrics give people the impression that they are softer than in the past, but the stiffness and fullness of uniform fabrics are insufficient, and the surface is slippery or slippery. Most drape fabrics are woven with low density. The fabric is soft but the yarn is hard, and the fabric cannot sag naturally and smoothly. The color rendering of the fabric is poor, the appearance is dull and uniform, and there is no natural appearance of natural fibers. Therefore, polyester fabrics from South Korea, Taiwan and other places have flooded into the Chinese mainland market.
Poor quality of raw materials
Japan leads the way in the development of chemical fiber raw materials. In view of the final style of fabrics, new fibers such as special-shaped cross-section, ultra-fine, high shrinkage, high elasticity, micro-particle mixing, and multi-component copolymerization have been developed. Use ultra-fine fibers to create a soft, smooth and waxy feel, use coarse fibers to obtain the stiffness of the fabric, use different shrinkage fibers and deformation processing methods to obtain the fluffiness or fullness of the fabric, use special-shaped cross-section fibers to create beautiful luster, and use fiber surface morphology The subtle changes eliminate the waxy feeling on the surface of the fabric and improve the dyeability. The corrosive finishing process is used to further improve the feel and gloss of the fabric. The fiber structure and gauze structure are comprehensively designed, and the technological advancements in the fields of chemical fiber, textile, dyeing and finishing are cleverly combined to develop a “simulated, super-real” new synthetic fiber fabric.
In recent years, some filaments with differentiated properties (such as three different filaments with different cross-sections, different deniers, and different shrinkage mixed fibers) and fine-denier filaments have been developed in China. These are a good start for the modification of polyester fabrics. The performance of three-different silk wool-like fabrics is significantly better than that of ordinary polyester fabrics, but the performance of micro- and ultra-fine denier fabrics is generally poor.
In imitation silk, imitation wool, imitation linen and other varieties, due to the irregular cross-section molding of domestic split ultra-fine denier composite chemical fibers, in the key processes of chemical fiber simulation products such as fiber opening, alkali reduction, wrinkling, and pre-shaping, printing and dyeing processing The difficulty increases. Therefore, insufficient separation often occurs. Many micro-porous fibers and micro-grooved fibers often cannot obtain ideal grooves or pits during alkali reduction. The new synthetic fiber raw materials in some simulated fabrics are provided by foreign companies, but due to a lack of understanding of the raw materials, blind development cannot meet the requirements for high-end fabrics made from high-end raw materials.
Insufficient research on the properties of multi-component fibers
New products with diversified new fiber components cannot obtain uniform colors during dyeing due to insufficient ability to grasp the properties of raw materials and insufficient development of blended fiber dyeing technology. Some green and environmentally friendly and man-made and regenerated fiber fabrics independently developed by my country such as soybean fiber, corn fiber, bamboo fiber, pupa silk silk, etc. have been produced in batches, but they have not yet formed a large scale, and there are still some problems in dye selection, dyeing process formulation and fabric style reflection. The post-finishing process needs to be further discussed and improved.
For example: moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fibers, slurries and oils have a great impact on performance and must be removed during pre-treatment (different manufacturers may adopt different oils and treatment processes); the fiber cross-section shape is relatively sharp and is easily corroded by alkali. The weight loss rate must be strictly controlled when reducing weight; some hygroscopic and quick-drying fibers are chemically modified and are not resistant to concentrated alkali and must be dyed at low temperature; all dyes, additives, and finishing agents must be hydrophilic.�Only when the above processing conditions are met, the functionality of moisture absorption and quick drying can be reflected. xA93MWN8b
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