Denim is a garment that can be worn all year round, so how to distinguish different types of denim (denim fabric): First, according to the thickness of denim, it is divided into 4.5 amp, 6 amp, 8 amp, 10 amp, and 11 amp. , 12A, 13.5A, 14.5A, etc. 4.5A is very thin and is often used to make summer women’s vests, sleeveless shirts, etc., while 14.5A is already very thick and can be used to make men’s cotton-padded clothes in winter. Most of the jeans we often wear range from 8A to 12A.
In terms of denim fabric types, it can be divided into plain weave, twill weave, and herringbone weave. Pattern, interwoven pattern, bamboo pattern, dark pattern, and flocked denim, etc. In terms of composition, denim is divided into combed and carded, including 100% cotton, elastic (Lycra), cotton and linen blends, and Tencel. At present, the more popular varieties of denim at home and abroad are mainly ring-spun denim, warp and weft slub denim, super indigo dyed denim, over-color, mixed-color denim and weft stretch denim, etc.
1. Ring-spun denim
With ring-spun yarn With the development and application of new process equipment such as high-speed spinning, large packages, fine interlocking, and knot-free yarns, shortcomings such as short spinning length, low production efficiency, and many knots of coarse yarns have been solved. The situation in which the yarn used in denim is replaced by air-spun yarn is rapidly changing, and ring-spun yarn is likely to make a comeback.
Because ring-spun denim has better properties than air-spun yarn, such as feel, drape, tear strength, etc., it is also due to people’s psychological return to nature and the pursuit of originality. The influence of the developed denim style, and the more important reason is that after the ring-spun denim clothing is polished and processed, the surface will show a hazy bamboo-like style, which is in line with the personalized needs of today’s denim clothing. In addition, slub yarn denim is currently very popular in the market, and ring-spun bamboo joints can be spun into shorter and denser bamboo joints, which has also promoted the development momentum of ring-spun denim.
2. Slub denim
When designing with different yarns Slub yarns with different numbers, slub thicknesses (compared to base yarns), slub lengths and pitches are equipped with slub yarns in single warp direction or single weft direction and both warp and weft directions, with the same number or different numbers. When normal yarns are properly proportioned and arranged, a variety of slub denim can be produced. After clothing washing and processing, various hazy or clear strip-style denim can be formed, which is subject to consumer personalization. Demand groups are welcome.
Early slub denim almost always used ring-spun slub yarn because it can spin slubs with shorter lengths, smaller pitches, and relatively higher density. Yarn is easy to form a dense embellishment effect on the cloth surface, and is mainly made of warp bamboo knots. With the development of market consumer demand, two-way slub denim with warp and weft is currently popular, especially two-way slub denim products with weft stretch, which are very popular in domestic and foreign markets. For some varieties, as long as the tissue structure is well designed, a single variety of ring-spun yarn can be used in the warp direction and an appropriate proportion of slub yarn can be used in the weft direction, which can also achieve the effect of two-way slub denim in both warp and weft directions.
3. Weft stretch denim
Spandex elastic yarn The adoption of denim has developed the denim variety into a new field. It can make denim clothing close-fitting and comfortable, and then add bamboo knots or different colors to make denim products more suitable for fashionable and personalized consumer needs, so it has great development. potential. At present, most stretch denim has weft elasticity, and the elastic elongation is generally between 20% and 40%. The elastic elongation depends on the weave design of the fabric. The smaller the tightness of the warp and weft weave on the cloth machine, the greater the elasticity. On the contrary, under the condition that the tightness of the warp yarn structure is fixed, the greater the tightness of the weft elastic yarn, the smaller the elasticity. When the weft tightness reaches a certain level, elasticity may even be lost.
In addition, the current prominent problem of finished stretch denim fabrics is that the shrinkage rate in the weft direction is too large, generally more than 10%, and even up to more than 20% in some cases. Unstable fabric width brings great difficulties to garment production. The first solution is not to make the elastic stretch too large during product design, generally 20% to 30%, that is, maintain a certain tightness in the warp and weft direction, and When pre-shrinking, appropriately increase the tension to cause the fabric to shrink significantly, thereby obtaining a lower residual shrinkage in the weft direction of the finished fabric. Another solution is to heat-set stretch denim after pre-shrinking. In this way, a more uniform fabric width and a more stable and lower weft shrinkage can be obtained, which meets the requirements of garment processing and production.
4. Special color denim
Due to super indigo dyeing or After being washed and processed, clothing made of extra-deep indigo-dyed denim can achieve a special effect of rich and bright color, which is widely welcomed by consumers. “Super Indigo” dyed denim has two major characteristics: extremely deep dyeing depth and extremely good color fastness to washing.
The former refers to the amount of indigo dye dyed on the yarn per unit weight (generally expressed as the dye accounts for % of the dry weight of the yarn, referred to as the dyeing depth %). For example, conventional The indigo dyeing depth of denim warp yarns is 1% to 3%, while the dyeing depth of “super indigo” needs to reach more than 4% before it can be called super indigo or extra deep indigo.
The latter refers to the fact that “super indigo” dyed denim garments need to withstand repeated grinding and washing for more than 3 hours.�, the requirement is to be close-fitting, and in the past two years, some big brands have introduced three-dimensional tailoring, which is similar to the draping we have learned, adding more pleats at the knees, or one more face, to better enhance the freedom of movement of jeans, and The cutting of a denim suit can reflect the skill of a pattern maker, especially if the sleeves are made with high elasticity, it is difficult to make the sleeves flat, wrinkle-free, and beautiful in appearance.
7. Denim decoration technology
The development of denim in the past two years The trend is different from the past. In addition to paying great attention to the changing design of washing, it also attaches great importance to the decorative craftsmanship of jeans:
Raw edges: Trim the hems and body of the jeans with scissors. tattered, plus special threads; machine embroidery, including computer machine embroidered patterns and flower designs;
Hot diamonds: This type is very popular in the Russian market, patchwork Embroidery, hand embroidery, bead embroidery, very craftsmanship and design;
Glue printing: it feels hard, and the pattern will easily fall off when washed;
Laser: burns away all the colors of the cloth, revealing the color of the original cloth, with a rendering effect. Denim can also be matched with different fabrics, such as wool, imitation leather, corduroy, thick knitted fabrics (fleece cloth, sweatshirts) cloth) and so on;
There are many styles that can be made with denim, including five-pocket jeans, denim shirts, denim jackets, skirts, coats, etc. This is also reflected in the A place for your creativity and talents.
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