The styling formula is a combination of multiple chemical additives mixed at a certain concentration to achieve a fixed effect. Through the selection of styling formula, it is expected to achieve the following effects:
1) The feel meets customer requirements;
2) Improve some internal properties The indicators meet customer requirements (such as tearing, slippage, PH value, etc.);
3) Taking into account the difficulty of post-process processing (post-process mainly refers to pre-shrinking and garment making)
Chemical additives used for styling mainly fall into the following categories according to their functions: softeners, anti-slip agents, and stiffeners , penetrant, and pH adjuster. According to the ionic type, it can be divided into three types: anionic, cationic and non-ionic. Since the chemical composition of each chemical additive is different, and there are incompatible incompatibilities between different ionic types, the performance and role of the additive must be fully considered when selecting and formulating the styling formula.
Understanding the performance and characteristics of commonly used additives and having a certain understanding of the inherent strength of fabrics (currently controlled mainly by tearing and slippage) is beneficial to the formulation of styling formulas.
The formulation of the styling formula focuses on physical indicators such as slippage and tearing strength. Take woven fabrics as an example. When the plain weave type is low in density, it has poor slippage and tensile strength, and has a soft feel; when it is high in density, it has poor tearing strength, good stretch, hard feel, and is prone to fish scale wrinkles; and the twill type is prone to wrinkles. The longer the floating length, the worse the slip and the higher the tearing strength; DOBBY cloth refers to plain weave and twill weave; 80S single yarn variety is very sensitive to various additives and has a certain relationship with the weft tension during the processing, so it must be Before setting the shape, check the cloth and then proof the formula; for the square weave, the weft weight is flat and the warp weight is flat. The weft weight flat weave has poor warp slip, and the warp weight flat weft has poor weft slip. Elastic fabrics are affected by elasticity and slip. Migration is generally higher than that of pure cotton varieties with the same tissue specifications.
The formulation of the styling formula must also consider the control of hand feel consistency between different patterns in the same order. Mainly include:
1) Adjust the feel difference caused by the different hair effects of different shades of colors;
2) Adjust the white cloth and YARN -The difference in feel between DYE fabrics;
3) Adjust the differences between different batches or different patterns due to color and other issues caused by processing in different processes or process conditions;
4) Adjust the differences between different batches and patterns caused by internal and external rework.
The impact of the pre- and post-styling processes (such as whether to wash, whether to calender, pre-shrinking speed, etc.) on the feel must also be fully considered when formulating the styling formula.
After having a comprehensive understanding of the above aspects, you can start to formulate a styling formula (based on woven fabrics (For example):
1. Formulation of normal cloth formula
1. Analyze the customer’s samples (or requirements), understand the feel and style of the samples, and initially determine which additives should be used;
2. According to the fabric weave specifications and customer quality standards, Analyze the inherent strength balance point and preliminarily determine the amount of additives with qualified quality;
3. Determine whether the fabric needs to be processed according to the order requirements, color number and dye combination, fabric type or customer’s special requirements. Calendering, water washing, backwashing and other finishings that have a great impact on the hand feel;
4. Do not add too much anti-slip agent on the basis of too much softener to improve slip. ;
5. Analyze possible vehicle speed reduction based on organizational specifications;
6. Based on the above 6 points, select a sorting aid with suitable performance Agent and dosage to finalize the softening formula.
II. Formula formulation of reworked cloth
When formulating the rework cloth, the main consideration is the consistency of the feel. What is particularly prominent is the impact of each reworking process on the feel of the fabric. Generally speaking, after only setting and post-process rework, the soft formula can be formulated with clean water according to the customer’s pH value requirements (pH value adjusted to 5.5~6.5); after various reworks after washing, although the fabric surface Some of the additives will be washed away, but at the same time, some of them will be washed into the fiber, which is more conducive to improving the feel in the post-processing process.
Therefore, the formula after washing and rework must be formulated with reference to the formula before washing. Generally speaking, the dosage is about 1/2 of the original formula (the amount of softener with very little and a lot of softener must be considered separately situation); for cloths that have been repaired by mercerization, since the softener originally added to the cloth surface during mercerization has been completely destroyed, the styling after mercerization is generally processed according to the original formula (those with very little softener must be processed separately according to the situation) .
In short, the formulation of styling formula is a complex process, which requires a comprehensive understanding of the finishing process and additives as well as a thorough understanding of the fabric structure. A formula that meets the requirements can only be formulated after a thorough analysis of the structure, customer requirements, etc.
This requires us to first be familiar with the following elements:
1 ) Customer requirements;
2) Improve touch sensitivity;
3) Ability to analyze touch style;
4) For fabricsThe ability to analyze the tissue structure;
5) Master the performance, function and compatibility of additives;
6) Different The impact of the finishing process on the feel of the fabric;
7) Familiar with the impact of different additive combinations on physical indicators;
8 ) Minimize the use of softeners, reduce costs while taking into account quality.
After mastering the above aspects, the formulation of the styling formula can be targeted.
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