The status of styling in dyeing factory production is getting higher and higher with the high requirements of customers, and it is becoming more and more important. As a qualified styling personnel and manager, you must master certain basic knowledge and skills, and the styling process and custom formulations form an important part of production.
The styling formula is a combination of multiple chemical additives mixed at a certain concentration to achieve a fixed effect. . Through the selection of styling formula, it is expected to achieve the following effects:
1. The feel meets customer requirements;
2. Improve some internal properties The indicators meet customer requirements (such as tearing, slippage, PH value, etc.);
3. Take into account the difficulty of post-process processing (post-process mainly refers to pre-shrinking and garment making)
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Chemical additives used in styling mainly fall into the following categories according to their functions:
Softeners, anti-slip agents , stiffening agents, penetrating agents, and pH adjusters.
According to ionic type, it can be divided into three types: anionic, cationic and non-ionic.
Because the chemical composition of each chemical additive is different, and there are incompatibility between different ion types, the performance of the additive and the required properties must be fully considered when selecting and formulating the styling formula. kick in.
Understanding the performance and characteristics of commonly used additives and having a certain understanding of the inherent strength of fabrics (currently controlled mainly by tearing and slippage) is beneficial to the formulation of styling formulas.
The formulation of the styling formula focuses on physical indicators such as slippage and tearing strength.
Take woven fabrics as an example. When the plain weave is low in density, it has poor slip and tensile strength and a softer feel;
When the density is high, the tearing strength is poor, the stretch is good, the hand feel is hard, and fish scale wrinkles are easy to occur;
The twill variety has a longer floating length and worse slippage, which makes it easier to tear. The higher the breaking strength;
DOBBY cloth refers to plain weave and twill weave; 80S single yarn variety is very sensitive to various additives and has a certain relationship with the weft tension during processing.
Therefore, it is necessary to check the cloth and proofing before setting the formula; for the square weave, the weft weight and warp weight are flat, and the weft weight and flat weave have poor warp slip, and the warp weight is Flat weave has poor weft slip; elastic fabric is affected by elasticity, and slip is generally higher than pure cotton varieties of the same weave specifications.
The formulation of the styling formula must also consider the control of hand feel consistency between different patterns in the same order.
Mainly include:
1) Adjust the feel difference caused by the different hair effects of different shades of colors;
2) Adjust the feel difference between the original white cloth and YARN-DYE cloth;
3) Adjust the color and other issues caused by processing in different processes or process conditions Differences between different batches or different patterns;
4) Adjust the differences between different batches and patterns caused by internal and external rework.
The impact of the pre- and post-styling processes (such as whether to wash, whether to calender, pre-shrinking speed, etc.) on the feel must also be fully considered when formulating the styling formula.
After having a comprehensive understanding of the above aspects, you can start to formulate the shaping formula (taking woven fabrics as an example):
1. Formulation of normal cloth formula
1. Analyze customer samples (or requirements) , understand the feel style of the incoming sample, and make a preliminary judgment on which additive should be used;
2. According to the fabric tissue specifications and customer quality standards, analyze the inherent strength balance point, and make a preliminary judgment on qualified quality The amount of additives;
3. Determine whether the fabric needs to be calendered, washed, backwashed, etc. according to the order requirements, color number, dye combination and fabric type or customer’s special needs. Finishing that has a large impact;
4. Do not add too much anti-slip agent to improve slip on the basis of too much softener;
5. Analyze the possible shrinking speed according to the tissue specifications;
6. Based on the above 6 points, select finishing additives with suitable performance and dosage, so as to finally determine the softening formula.
2. Formulation of rework cloth
When formulating the rework cloth, the main consideration is the consistency of the feel. What is particularly prominent is the impact of each reworking process on the feel of the fabric. Generally speaking, after only setting and post-process rework, the soft formula can be formulated with clean water according to the customer’s pH value requirements (pH value adjusted to 5.5~6.5); after various reworks after washing, although the fabric surface Some of the additives will be washed away, but at the same time, some of them will be washed into the fiber, which is more conducive to improving the feel in the post-processing process.
Therefore, the formula after washing and rework must be formulated with reference to the formula before washing. Generally speaking, the dosage is about 1/2 of the original formula (the amount of softener with very little and a lot of softener must be considered separately situation); for cloths that have been repaired by mercerization, since the softener originally added to the cloth surface during mercerization has been completely destroyed, the styling after mercerization is generally processed according to the original formula (those with very little softener must be processed separately according to the situation) .
In short, the formulation of styling formula is a complex process, which requires a comprehensive understanding of the finishing process and additives as well as the fabric structure and structure.Only after thorough analysis of customer requirements can a formula that meets the requirements be formulated.
Master the eight elements
1. Customer requirements;
2. Improve touch sensitivity;
3. Ability to analyze touch style;
4. Ability to analyze fabric structure;
5. Mastery of additive performance, functions and compatibility contraindications;
6. The impact of different finishing processes on fabric feel;
7. Familiar with the impact of different additive combinations on physical indicators;
8. Reduce the use of softeners as much as possible to reduce costs while taking into account quality.
After mastering the above aspects, the formulation of the styling formula can be targeted. </p
