Bamboo fiber is a fiber made from bamboo, which grows widely in my country. Bamboo fiber not only combines the advantages of natural fibers, but its unique function is that it has natural bactericidal and antibacterial effects. The products made do not need to add any synthetic antibacterial agents and will not cause skin allergies. It is a The new green environmentally friendly fiber is particularly suitable for making underwear, etc., and has very broad market development prospects.
According to different processing methods, bamboo fiber can be divided into two categories: native bamboo fiber and regenerated bamboo fiber kind.
Native bamboo fiber is made directly from bamboo using physical and mechanical methods.
Native bamboo fiber is very similar to hemp fiber. The single fiber linear density is about 0.05dtex and the length is less than 5mm. It is difficult to directly spin and process. It can only be made into fiber bundles (or called fiber bundles). Craft fibers) are spun. Although native bamboo fiber has relatively good moisture absorption, breathability, antibacterial and sterilization properties, the current production process of native bamboo fiber basically refers to the hemp fiber production process. The technology is relatively backward, the fiber quality is unstable, the output is low, and the waste is large. At the same time, the extensibility of native bamboo fiber is relatively small, and it is easy to break easily during weaving. After the textiles are dyed and finished, as the pectin is removed, the fiber bundles disintegrate, making the bamboo fiber textiles weak, with reduced strength, surface fluffing, and high non-cellulose content. It is difficult to obtain high whiteness during bleaching and is easy to Yellowing affects the brightness and color fastness of dyed products. Therefore, native bamboo fiber is still in the research and development stage.
Regenerated bamboo fiber is a fiber produced by the spinning process of viscose fiber, such as “Tianzhu” brand bamboo fiber. The linear density and whiteness of this fiber are close to that of ordinary viscose. It has good strength, stability and uniformity, high toughness and wear resistance, and excellent spinnability. It is compatible with cotton, linen, silk, Tencel, polyester, nylon, etc. Other fiber blends work well.
Bamboo cotton spandex jersey is blended with “Tianzhu” brand bamboo fiber and cotton, which overcomes the shortcomings of pure bamboo fiber textiles that are too soft and have low wet strength. Spandex fiber is added during the weaving process, so that the single-sided elastic jersey not only has good hygroscopicity, good air permeability, cool heat dissipation, good drape, soft and smooth feel, bright color, but also has good elasticity, wrinkle resistance and extensibility. , is an ideal fabric for high-end underwear.
1 Gray fabrics, dyeing auxiliaries, bleaching and dyeing equipment
1.1 Gray fabric
Uses 18tex bamboo cotton (70/30) blended yarn and 4.4tex spandex (spandex content is 8%) as raw materials, using a barrel diameter of 863.6mm (34”), large circular knitting with gauge size of 28 needles/25.4mm. The coil length of bamboo-cotton blended yarn is 15.5～16.0cm/50 needles, and the coil length of spandex yarn is 7.0～7.2cm/50 needles. The weight of the gray fabric is 210~220g/m2, and the width of the gray fabric is 180cm.
1.2 Dyeing auxiliaries
Hydrogen peroxide, caustic soda, refining penetrant FKST12E2, chelating dispersion #UFK-422A, Yuzhongbao C, hydrogen peroxide removal enzyme CTAD3, B-type reactive dye, Yuanming powder, soda ash , soaping agent, fixing agent, softening and smoothing agent, etc.
1.3 Bleaching and dyeing equipment
Overflow dyeing machines, dehydrators, dryers, opening machines, shaping machines, etc.
2 Process route analysis
Bamboo fiber is a regenerated fiber. Natural impurities have been removed during the fiber preparation process. At the same time, the wet strength of the fiber is low, so it is not suitable for bamboo cotton. The dyeing and finishing of spandex jersey cloth should adopt low tension and short process technology.
Production process flow: rough cloth section – gray cloth inspection – matching cylinder – seam head – preforming – Stitching – pre-treatment – dyeing – softening – dehydration – fabric arrangement – drying – opening – tentering, shaping – inspection, one yard of fabric and packaging.
2.1 Blank fabric sectioning
After weaving, the bamboo cotton spandex jersey fabric should be automatically opened or the cylindrical knitted fabric should be sectioned after the machine is off the machine. , to prevent the middle crease after cylindrical rolling caused by the spandex fiber contained in the fabric. Since the fully lined spandex jersey fabric has high elasticity, appropriate traction must be given when cutting the width. The vehicle speed is 160~180m/min and should be strictly followed. Open the section line, and the dropped fabric must be neatly placed or opened and rolled.
2.2 Inspection and distribution of gray fabrics Cylinder, seam head
The inspection of gray fabric is mainly to inspect the physical indicators and appearance defects of gray cloth. Physical indicators include blank width, weight, density, etc. Appearance defects such as missing needles and oil stains etc.
The allocation of cylinders is to allocate the number and weight of the throw-dyed fabrics according to the capacity of the dyeing processing equipment, and print the cylinder number to ensure clarity. A ring-stitch sewing machine is used Sew the adjacent ends of cloth, and the seams should be firm to prevent breakage in subsequent processes, and should be flat, straight, neat, and firm, and the stitches should be even and consistent without skipping or missing stitches.
2.3 Pre-shaping and sewing
Bamboo cotton spandex stretch jersey Because it contains spandex fiber, it can be pre-shaped by a pin-type heat-setting machine to eliminate the wrinkles formed in the blank fabric during the stacking process, stabilize the shape of the fabric, and prevent fabric wrinkles and excessive size shrinkage during pre-treatment and dyeing. .
During the pre-shaping process, the fabric must be moistened evenly and thoroughly so that the fiber is in a swollen state and therefore has a certain degree of plasticity to facilitate the elimination of Internal stress to achieve the purpose of removing wrinkles.
In order to prevent the oil in the spandex fiber from making the fabricTo prevent oil spots from forming, a scouring agent with excellent scouring, penetration and emulsifying effects should be added to the wet solution, such as SupernolAT scouring agent 0.5-1g/L.
The preforming temperature is 160~180℃. The speed of the machine is 20~30m/min, which is measured by the fact that the edge of the fabric does not curl when it falls off the machine.
During preshaping, the overfeed rate of the fabric is generally controlled at 15%, and the width of the dropped machine is 10-15cm larger than the width of the plain blank. If the width of the drop machine is too small, due to the shrinkage of the spandex fiber during dyeing, the width of the finished fabric will be too small and fail to meet the requirements; if the width of the drop machine is too large, the fabric will be stretched during the second stenter setting after dyeing. Wrinkles form due to the extra wide fabric surface and are difficult to remove.
The pre-shaped fabric should be re-sewed. When sewing, the front side of the fabric should face inward. This can avoid the curling of the fabric during the dyeing process and the phenomenon of raw edges that cannot be dyed through. , while avoiding damage to the hair on the front side of the gray fabric. When sewing, you can use hand sewing or machine sewing. Pay attention to the stitches to be flush, even and firm.
2.4 Pre-treatment
The pre-treatment of gray fabric is mainly to remove cotton Various natural impurities contained in the fiber must be scoured evenly and removed cleanly to improve the wool effect and whiteness of the fabric.
Processing operation:
Prepare the gray fabric – add additives at 50°C – raise the temperature to 70°C – add H2O2 – raise the temperature to 98°C First, keep warm for 30 minutes, then lower the temperature to 90℃, drain the liquid, wash with hot water at 70℃, wash with water, remove oxygen and wash with water.
Process recipe:
27.5% H2O2
6mL/L NaOH2%
Refined penetration #UFKST12E21%
Chelated dispersion #UFK一 422A0.5%
Yuzhongbao C1mL/L
Hydrogen peroxide removal enzyme CTAD30.01%
Liquor ratio 1:10
2.5 Dyeing
During the dyeing process, the defect that bamboo cotton spandex jersey is prone to is folding. In order to overcome this shortcoming, dyeing machinery should be selected. It is generally better to use an air flow dyeing machine or an overflow dyeing machine. Since the flow rate of the dye liquor is faster than the movement of the fabric, the overflow dye liquor drives the fabric to move in the same direction. The fabric is in a relaxed state in the liquid flow and is subject to less tension. , making the color uniform, soft to the touch, and smooth.
The choice of dyes is mainly B-type reactive dyes. The molecular structure of this dye contains two reactive groups, one of which is a monochloro-s-triazine reactive group and is resistant to alkali. It has better acid resistance; the other one is B-sulfate ethyl sulfone type active group, which has better acid resistance. This dye not only has high color fixation rate and good color fastness, but also has excellent application properties such as reproducibility, solubility, and lifting properties.
Processing operation: add additives at room temperature – add dye, run for 20 minutes, add salt in two steps, run for 20 minutes, 1~1.5℃/min, heat up to 60℃, add salt in two steps Alkali operation for 30 to 60 minutes – liquid drainage – water washing – pickling – soaping – water washing – color fixation – dehydration and drying.
Rose red process prescription:
Red BES4.960%
Golden yellow BES0.380%
Navy blue BES0.023%
Cotton leveling agent FK-4861%
Yuzhongbao C1mL/L
Na2SO 450g/L
Na/CO 310g/L
Soaping agent – 1%
Formaldehyde-free color fixing agent FK – 406M4%
Liquor ratio 1:10
2.6 Softening treatment
Bamboo cotton spandex jersey is treated with high-grade soft and smooth agent TZ-208, which makes the fabric feel soft, smooth and dry, and improves the elasticity and wrinkle resistance of the fabric.
Softening process:
Softening and smoothing agent TZ-2065%
Temperature 35～40℃
Time 20min
Liquor ratio 1:10
2.7 Dehydration, drying, and fabric sorting
The dehydration of bamboo cotton and spandex jersey cloth should not be too dry, and the moisture content is generally controlled at 50% to 60%. If the dehydration is too dry, the fabric will form folds. The rotation speed of the dehydrator is 900r/min, and the dehydration time is 10 to 12 minutes.
The dehydrated fabric should be placed flat on a rotary screen dryer for hot air drying. Remove the sutures and straighten the fabric to prepare it for shaping.
2.8 Stenter setting
The cloth can be removed for fabric stenter setting The surface is wrinkled and the width reaches the specified size. When setting, the drying room temperature is 165~175℃, the vehicle speed is 15~20m/min, the overfeed is 15%, the fabric falling temperature is lower than 50℃, and the falling width should be 3~4cm wider than the finished product width to prevent spandex Retraction causes the fabric width to be insufficient. In addition, when landing, you should also pay attention to the weight of the fabric and whether the cloth texture is skewed.
2.9 Fabric inspection, fabric coding and packaging
Fabric falling onto the machine It should be left for 2 hours before fabric inspection, which includes measuring the width, weight, shrinkage and other physical indicators of the fabric. At the same time, the fabric should also be inspected for appearance defects, such as snags, dense paths, etc. After the inspection is completed, it will be stamped as qualified. seal.
The fabrics that have passed the inspection should be stacked neatly, the seams should be cut, each piece of fabric should be folded into three folds, put into a packaging bag, and labeled. Customers, varieties, width, weight, weight, package number, etc., are neatly stacked at designated locations.
3 Conclusions
3.1 Bamboo cotton spandex jersey is moisture-absorbent, breathable, It dissipates heat and cools, feels soft and smooth, has bright colors, and focuses on the growth of the next generation. It is a high-end underwear for children to study hard. It has good anti-wrinkle and extensibility, and has sterilization and antibacterial effects. Ideal fabric.
3.2 Bamboo fiber is a regenerated fiber. Natural impurities have been removed during the fiber preparation process. At the same time, the wet strength of bamboo fiber is also low, so the dyeing and finishing of bamboo fiber textile products is Processing should be low tension and short process.
3.3 During dyeing and finishing production, the pre-shaping of bamboo cotton spandex jersey can eliminate wrinkles in the rough fabric and stabilize the shape of the fabric; during pre-treatment and dyeing processing, the fabric The tension should be small; the tenter shaping should control the width, weight and surface texture of the fabric.
3.4 my country is very rich in bamboo resources. The development and production of bamboo fiber and my country’s huge cotton textile, dyeing and finishing production capabilities all reflect the obvious international significance of the development and production of bamboo fiber textiles. Competitive Advantage.
�Fiber is a regenerated fiber, and natural impurities have been removed during the fiber preparation process. At the same time, the wet strength of bamboo fiber is also low. Therefore, the dyeing and finishing process of bamboo fiber textile products should be low tension and short process.
3.3 During dyeing and finishing production, the pre-shaping of bamboo cotton spandex jersey can eliminate wrinkles in the rough fabric and stabilize the shape of the fabric; during pre-treatment and dyeing processing, the fabric The tension should be small; the tenter shaping should control the width, weight and surface texture of the fabric.
3.4 my country is very rich in bamboo resources. The development and production of bamboo fiber and my country’s huge cotton textile, dyeing and finishing production capabilities all reflect the obvious international significance of the development and production of bamboo fiber textiles. Competitive Advantage. </p
