Common defects in styling and how to overcome them
01 Uneven needles (meaning that the needles on the edge of the fabric are of different widths, the wide ones are >10CM)
Causes:
1. The needle plate screws are loose and the needle plate is skewed,
2. The edge detector fails, and the screw wear correction time lags behind.
3. The needle plate chain is not flexible
Overcoming methods:
1. Adjust the position of the needle plate, tighten the screws, repair the edge detector to make it flexible and correct the lag,
2. Strengthen the chain pin and sleeve, clean and lubricate the sleeve and the ball
02 The needle hole is broken Holes
Causes:
1. Excessive expansion, causing damage to the edge fibers,
2. The extension ratio of the needle chain track plate is out of proportion
3. There are bent and broken needles on the needle plate
Measures to overcome:
1. Adjust the reach to a reasonable level and do not force the deadlift
2. Correct the extension ratio of the track plate
3. Replace the needle plate with bent or broken needles
03 The door width does not meet the process requirements.
Reasons:
1. Door width pointer and actual Not consistent
2. The amplitude modulation screw is damaged, causing the pointer to be inconsistent with the actual door width
3. The amplitude modulation clutches in the front, middle and rear positions do not match. Tight, causing the door width to move backward automatically, making the door width inaccurate.
Measures to overcome:
1. Correct the door width pointer to the standard door width
2. Check and repair the amplitude modulation screw
3. Check and repair the amplitude modulation clutch
04 Weft skew
Causes:
1. The number of needle clips on both sides of the running track is different, causing the weft yarns on both sides of the fabric to Inconsistent
2. The needle clip chain runs through the sleeve and the pins have different degrees of wear, causing differences in the actual running lengths on both sides
3. There is a difference in the speed of the brush driving roller when overfeeding
4. The pressure on both sides of the overfeeding roller is uneven or the structure is uneven, resulting in uneven warp tension on both sides of the fabric.
Measures to overcome:
1. The number of pins on both sides of the track must be the same
2. Replace worn sleeves and pins in a timely manner
3. The speed of the brush and overfeed roller must be controlled consistently, and the motor must be replaced if necessary. The dry humidity on both sides of the fabric before setting is Must be consistent
05 Needle plate mark (referring to the needle plate strips that appear after dyeing)
Causes:
1. The needle plates are uneven.
2. The needle clip chain does not rotate properly. Flexible or the chain is too loose
3. The upper needle brush presses the fabric too tightly, causing the fabric to stick to the bottom of the needle plate, resulting in poor hot air circulation and a temperature difference between the two sides
Measures to overcome:
1. Use mica to flatten the uneven needle plate and needle clips to make them horizontal and straight, and keep the chain rollers lubricated. Flexible rotation, appropriate tightness, so that the needle plate turns into a straight line
3. Adjust the high and low position of the brush so that it is in contact with the short needle
4. Preheat the needle plate chain to the process temperature before loading and driving
06 Moon edge or load Leaf edge
Causes:
1. Part of the needle plate is broken or worn
2. The upper needle brush is worn or grooved
3. The adjacent needle plates are uneven up and down, so that the lower part of the needle plate does not insert the needle deeply into the fabric edge. The needle plate slips out due to the stretching tension
To overcome the problem:
1. Replace the broken needle or damaged needle plate
2. Replace the worn upper needle brush
3. Correct the needle plate to make the upper and lower heights level
What to do when curling the edges?
1. During tenter shaping
In the rolling groove of the shaping machine, soft finishing can meet the customer’s requirements for the cloth. , and make it less likely to be scratched on the cloth guide wheel. Stenter shaping makes the fabric surface flat and stable in size, which can eliminate wrinkles and creases formed during the dyeing and finishing process. At the same time, during shaping, the shaping process conditions need to be strictly controlled.
(1) The setting temperature should be determined according to the elastic shrinkage and thickness of the fabric. If the temperature is too high, the strength will decrease, the elasticity will decrease, and the fabric may change color. If the setting temperature is too low, the fabric will curl easily, the width will be unstable, and the shrinkage rate will be large;
(2) The speed of the setting machine mainly depends on the length of the setting area and the setting temperature , The speed of the machine is too fast and the shaping effect is ineffective. Fine wrinkles are not easy to solve during the dyeing and finishing process. The machine speed is slow, especially under high temperature conditions, the fabric will turn yellow and the elasticity will decrease.
(3) For stereotyped overfeeding, after determining the fabric width, select the appropriate overfeeding amount and tension, which affects the weight, elasticity, and surface finishing of the fabric. The generation of wrinkles, such as low fabric tension, large overfeed, and uneven cloth surface, makes it difficult to eliminate the fine wrinkles produced by the fabric during the dyeing process. High tension, small overfeed, will lead to curling during heat setting.
2. Styling conditions
When pre-styling cotton and spandex knitted fabrics , it should be taken into account that the spandex yarns produced by different manufacturers are adapted to different setting temperatures. For example, the spandex produced by DuPont can withstand a setting temperature of 190°C, while the setting temperature of spandex produced in South Korea is lower, about 180°C
Generally, knitted fabrics with a spandex content of less than 5% and not serious hemming when cutting can be directly dyed in open width after pre-shaping. Knitted fabrics with a content of more than 5% and open edges that affect dyeing can be pre-set. After molding, it must be sewn into a tube shape before dyeing, otherwise the dyeing problem caused by curling cannot be overcome.
When dyeing knitted fabrics, choosing the appropriate cloth speed and nozzle pressure can achieve better dyeing results. The cycle time is preferably 2 to 3 minutes., the vehicle speed calculation formula is: cloth speed = cloth loop length/cloth cycle time.
01 Pre-styling
1. The stretch fabric contains a relatively high content of spandex, spandex and silk The shrinkage is not consistent, and the silk is harder than other raw materials. If it is not pre-shaped, dyed, and printed, pull marks, chicken scratches, etc. will appear.
2. The width of the predetermined blank fabric can be changed as required, and the gram weight is about 10 grams lighter than the finished product.
3. The printed fabric can be whitened, anti-static, penetrant, and waterproofed as required.
4. When making reservations for dyed gray fabrics, the quality inspection department must classify the gray fabrics into three grades: A, B, and C as required, so that they can be cast according to customer requirements.
02 Finished product finalization
1. Nylon embryo fabric
1. Setting temperature: 160℃-180℃, speed: 20M-25M/min
2. Setting temperature has a great impact on color changes Large, especially purple, pink orchid, etc., so pay attention to whether the colors of the post-order and pre-order boxes are the same.
3. The thickness and shrinkage rate of nylon fabrics are also different.
4. Nylon fabrics are easy to hook when setting. If there is a hook all the way through the shaping, stop the machine immediately, check the machine head and tail, bellows, and rollers, and polish them with sandpaper. Or doily. (Such as stockings cloth, mesh cloth)
03 Polyester cloth shaping
1. Setting temperature: 170℃-200℃, speed: 20M-28M/min
2. The setting color of polyester generally does not change much, but the sublimation fastness of red dye is not good , the dye will be left on the case after finishing, so you cannot make light colors immediately, you can only make black. You can also use scrap cloth and re-machine it several times to make light colors.
3. The shrinkage rate of polyester stretch fabric is very large. If the customer requires good elasticity, small shrinkage and good hand feel, the blank fabric must be pre-ordered. Pay special attention to black and white, red and white flowers. Due to the poor fastness of dye sublimation, the finished product must be set at a low temperature. If the temperature is high, the product will be seriously stained.
4. When shaping the polyester poppy fabric, pay attention to the thickness of the center and edges of the fabric. The temperature should be well controlled and not too high. Slow down the machine speed and pull in two steps. Setting it in two steps can reduce the difference in thickness between the middle edges. The first time you set it, the door width will be about 6-8 inches smaller than the finished product, and the weight will be about 100 grams. The temperature for the second time is 5-10 degrees lower than the first time, and the door width and weight are as required.
04 Cotton rayon
1. Setting temperature 160℃— 190℃, speed: 20M-30M/min
2. If cotton is dyed with direct dye, the color of the gray fabric will change greatly when it is hot and cold. The color matching must wait until the gray fabric is completely dyed. It can be corrected only after cooling, and the active material will not change much.
3. Rayon is prone to aging due to high temperatures, and burnt fabric is prone to snagging and tearing.
4. The shrinkage rate of cotton is very large. When setting the shape, the cloth feeding tension should be reduced, the pressing pressure should be increased, the cloth should be pressed dry, and the hot air blower should be turned on to the maximum. Slowing the speed can reduce the shrinkage rate. If the customer’s requirements are high, shrinkage testing is required.
5. If the customer requires that the fabric surface be free of twists, it must be shaped in a twill pattern.
05 Silk
1. Temperature 100℃-120℃, Speed: 20M-30M/min.
2. Turn down the hot air for silk shaping and make the door width smooth.
3. Silk is relatively delicate. Do not get water or sweat when styling, and do not use too much force when pulling the fabric.
06 Fixed PU glue
1. Imported pulp, high temperature will not Discoloration, 140℃-180℃, speed 25M-30M/min, large smoke.
2. Domestic pulp is easy to change color at high temperatures, 120℃-150℃, speed 25M-30M, and large smoke.
07 gram weight door width
1. Be sure to check before ordering Measure the weight and door width. If the difference is too far from the requirements, you must report it in time and follow the order.
2. When setting the shape, pay attention to the fact that the weight, middle and edge should not be too far apart, and the weight should not be too far apart from each other.
3. When finalizing, pay attention to whether the front, middle and back of the door width are the same. </p
