1. Curling types and solutions
Pre-shaped
① The spandex content of the stretch fabric is relatively high. The shrinkage of spandex and silk are different, and silk is harder than other raw materials. If it is not pre-set and dyed, stretch marks, chicken scratches, etc. will appear during printing.
② The width of the predetermined blank fabric can be changed as required, and the gram weight is about 10 grams lighter than the finished product.
③The printed fabric can be whitened, anti-static, penetrant, and waterproofed as required.
④ When making reservations for dyed gray fabrics, the quality inspection department must classify the gray fabrics into three grades: A, B, and C so that they can be cast according to customer requirements.
Finished product shaping
Nylon gray fabric
①Styling temperature 160℃- 180℃, speed 20M～25M/min.
② The color of the setting temperature changes greatly, especially purple, pink blue, etc., so pay attention to whether the color after setting is the same as that before setting.
③The thickness and shrinkage rate of nylon fabrics are also different.
④ Nylon fabrics are easy to hook when setting. If there is a thread hooking all the way through the shaping, stop the machine immediately, check the head and tail of the machine, the bellows, and the drum, and polish it with sandpaper or use a cloth. (Such as stockings cloth, mesh cloth).
Polyester cloth setting
① Setting temperature: 170°C–200°C, speed: 20M-28M/min.
② The final color of polyester generally does not change much, but the sublimation fastness of red dye is not good. The dye will be left on the chassis after finishing. It cannot be made into light color immediately. It can only be made into black. You can also use scrap cloth. After several passes, the light color can be achieved.
③The shrinkage rate of polyester stretch fabric is very large. If the customer requires good elasticity, small shrinkage and good hand feel, the gray fabric must be pre-set and fixed. Pay special attention to black and white, red and white flowers, because the dye sublimation fastness is not good. , the finished product must be set at low temperature. If the temperature is high, the product will be seriously stained.
④ When shaping the polyester burpee fabric, pay attention to the thickness of the center and edges of the fabric. The temperature should be well controlled and not too high. Slow down the machine speed and pull it in two steps. Setting it in two steps can reduce the difference in thickness between the middle edges. The first time you set it, the door width will be about 6-8 inches smaller than the finished product, and the weight will be about 100 grams. The second time the temperature is 5-10 degrees lower than the first time, the door width and weight are as required.
Cotton rayon
① Setting temperature: 160°C- -190°C, speed: 20M- -30M/min.
② If cotton is dyed with direct dyes, the color of the gray fabric will change greatly when hot and cold. You must wait until the gray fabric is completely cooled before color matching. The active material will not change much.
③Rayon is prone to aging due to high temperatures, and burnt fabric is prone to snagging and tearing.
④The shrinkage rate of cotton is very large. When setting the shape, the cloth feeding tension should be reduced, the pressing pressure should be increased, the cloth should be pressed dry, the hot air blower should be turned to the maximum, and the machine speed should be slowed down to reduce the Shrinkage rate, if customer requirements are high, shrinkage testing is required.
⑤ If the customer requires that the fabric surface be free of twists, it must be shaped in a twill pattern.
Real silk
①Temperature 100°C- -120°C, speed: 20M- -30M/min.
② Turn down the hot air for silk shaping and make the door width smooth.
③Silk is relatively delicate. Do not get water or sweat when styling, and do not use too much force when pulling the cloth.
Fixed PU glue
(i) Imported pulp, no discoloration at high temperatures, 140*C- 180C, speed 25M- -30M/min, large smoke.
(ii) Domestic pulp is easy to change color at high temperatures, 120°C–150°C, speed 25M-30M, and large smoke.
Gram weight and door width
①Be sure to measure the gram weight and door width before ordering. If the difference is too far from the requirements, the order must be reported in time.
② When setting the shape, pay attention to the difference between the middle and the sides of the weight, and the difference between the foot and the heel should not be too far.
③When finalizing, pay attention to whether the front, middle and back of the door width are the same.
2. How to overcome the setting curling?
1. When setting the tenter shape
In the rolling groove of the setting machine, soft finishing can meet the customer’s requirements for the cloth and make it less likely to be scratched on the cloth guide wheel. Stenter setting makes the fabric surface flat and stable in size, which can eliminate dyeing and finishing. The wrinkles and creases formed during the processing also require strict control of the shaping process conditions during shaping.
① The setting temperature should be determined according to the elastic shrinkage and thickness of the fabric. If the temperature is too high, the strength will decrease, the elasticity will decrease, and the fabric may change color. If the setting temperature is too low, the fabric will curl easily, the width will be unstable, and the shrinkage rate will be large.
②The speed of the setting machine mainly depends on the length of the setting area and the setting temperature. If the speed is too fast, the setting will be ineffective. Fine wrinkles are difficult to solve during the dyeing and finishing process. If the speed is slow, especially under high temperature conditions, the fabric will turn yellow. , the elasticity decreases.
③For stereotyped overfeeding, after determining the fabric width, select the appropriate overfeeding amount and tension. It affects the weight, elasticity, and wrinkles of the fabric surface. If the fabric tension is small, , the overfeed is large, the cloth surface is uneven, and it is difficult to eliminate the fine wrinkles produced by the fabric during the dyeing process. The tension is large, and the overfeed amount is small, which will lead to curling during heat setting.
2. Styling conditions
When pre-styling cotton spandex knitted fabrics, it should be taken into account that the spandex yarns produced by different manufacturers are adapted to different setting temperatures, such as those produced by DuPont. Spandex can withstand a setting temperature of 190°C. The setting temperature of spandex produced in South Korea is lower, about 180°C.
Generally, knitted fabrics with a spandex content of less than 5% and not serious hemming during cutting can be directly dyed in open width after pre-shaping. If the content is greater than 5%, open edges will affect the dyeing of knitted fabrics. After the fabric is pre-shaped, it must be sewn into a tube shape before dyeing. Otherwise, the dyeing problem caused by curling cannot be overcome.
When dyeing knitted fabrics, choose the appropriate fabric speed and nozzle.�� pressure can achieve better dyeing results, and the cycle time is preferably 2 to 3 minutes. The calculation formula for vehicle speed is: cloth speed = cloth loop length/cloth cycle time.
Summary:
Sometimes we need to identify the quality of fabrics ourselves. Good fabrics determine a good product, so this is very important. </p
