The status of styling in dyeing factory production has become more and more important with the high requirements of customers. As it gets higher and higher, it becomes more and more important. As a qualified styling personnel and manager, you must master certain basic knowledge and skills. The shaping process and customized formula are an important part of production.
The styling formula is a combination of multiple chemical additives mixed at a certain concentration to achieve a fixed effect. Through the selection of the shaping formula, it is expected that the following effects should be achieved: 1. The feel meets customer requirements; 2. Improves some internal indicators to meet customer requirements (such as tearing, slippage, PH value, etc.); 3. Taking into account the difficulty of post-process processing (post-processing) The process mainly refers to pre-shrinking and garment making)
Chemical additives used in styling mainly fall into the following categories according to their functions: softeners, anti-slip agents, stiffeners, penetrants, and pH adjuster. According to the ionic type, it can be divided into three types: anionic, cationic and non-ionic.
Because the chemical composition of each chemical additive is different, and there are incompatibility between different ion types, the performance and role of the additive must be fully considered when selecting and formulating the styling formula.
Understanding the performance and characteristics of commonly used additives and having a certain understanding of the inherent strength of fabrics (currently controlled mainly by tearing and slippage) is beneficial to the formulation of styling formulas.
When formulating the styling formula, the key considerations are slippage and tearing strength in terms of physical indicators. Take woven fabrics as an example. When the plain weave type is low in density, it has poor slippage and tensile strength, and has a soft feel; when it is high in density, it has poor tearing strength, good stretch, hard feel, and is prone to fish scale wrinkles; and the twill type is prone to wrinkles. The longer the floating length, the worse the slippage and the higher the tearing strength; DOBBY cloth refers to plain weave and twill weave; the 80S single yarn variety is very sensitive to various additives and has a certain relationship with the weft tension during processing. Therefore, it is necessary to check the fabric and then proof the formula before finalizing; for the square weave, the weft weight is flat and the warp weight is flat, the weft weight flat weave has poor warp slip, and the warp weight flat weave has poor weft slip; elastic fabric is affected by elasticity , the slippage is generally higher than that of pure cotton varieties with the same tissue specifications.
The formulation of the styling formula must also consider the control of hand feel consistency between different patterns in the same order. It mainly includes: 1) Adjusting the difference in feel caused by the different wool effects of different shades of colors; 2) Adjusting the difference in feel between this white cloth and YARN-DYE cloth; 3) Adjusting the difference caused by different processes or process conditions due to color and other issues. Differences between batches or different patterns; 4) Adjust differences between different batches and patterns caused by internal and external rework. The impact of the pre- and post-styling processes (such as whether to wash, whether to calender, pre-shrinking speed, etc.) on the feel must also be fully considered when formulating the styling formula.
After having a comprehensive understanding of the above aspects, you can start to formulate a styling formula (taking woven fabrics as an example):
1. Formulation of normal fabric formula
1. Analyze the customer’s samples (or requirements), understand the feel and style of the samples, and initially determine which additives need to be used; 2. According to the fabric tissue specifications and customer quality standards, analyze the inherent strength balance point and initially determine the amount of additives that meet the quality requirements; 3. Determine whether the fabric needs to be calendered and washed based on the order requirements, color number and dye combination, and fabric type or customer special requirements. , backwashing and other finishings that have a great impact on the feel; 4. Do not add too much anti-slip agent to improve slip on the basis of too much softener; 5. Possible pre-shrinking speed based on analysis of tissue specifications; 6. Based on the above 6 Click to select finishing additives with suitable performance and dosage to finalize the softening formula.
2. Formulation of the reworked cloth
When formulating the reworked cloth, the main consideration is the consistency of the feel. What is particularly prominent is the impact of each reworking process on the feel of the fabric. Generally speaking, after only setting and post-process rework, the soft formula can be formulated with clean water according to the customer’s pH value requirements (pH value adjusted to 5.5~6.5); after various reworks after washing, although the fabric surface Some of the additives will be washed away, but at the same time, some will be washed into the fiber, which is more conducive to improving the feel in the post-processing process.
Therefore, the formula after washing and reworking must be formulated with reference to the formula before washing. Generally speaking, the dosage is about 1/2 of the original formula, which is more reasonable (those with too little or too much softener must be dealt with separately according to the situation); after mercerization After repairing the cloth, the softener originally added to the cloth during mercerization has been completely destroyed. After mercerization, the styling is generally processed according to the original formula (those with very little softener must be processed separately according to the situation).
In short, the formulation of styling formula is a complex process, which requires a comprehensive understanding of the finishing process and additives, as well as a thorough analysis of the fabric structure, customer requirements, etc. before formulating a formula that meets the requirements. formula.
Master eight elements
1. Customer requirements; 2. Improve touch sensitivity; 3. Ability to analyze touch style ; 4. Ability to analyze the structure of fabrics; 5. Mastery of the properties, functions and compatibility taboos of additives; 6. The impact of different finishing processes on the feel of fabrics.7. Be familiar with the impact of different additive combinations on physical indicators; 8. Minimize the use of softeners to reduce costs while taking into account quality. After mastering the above aspects, the formulation of styling formula can be targeted. </p
