1. Basic formula
GM/㎡=G(gm)÷S(㎡)
WIDTH=CUTS÷ WPI
OZ/YD=WIDTH×GM/㎡×0.00082
MAXREPTATOFFEED=FEEDERS÷CPI
GM/㎡=(CPI×WPI×50C)÷ S/1×0.018367
S/1=840yds÷1lb=0.00059×L(mm)÷G(gm)
Note:
G——weight
S——area
L——length
GM/ ㎡——The square meter weight of the fabric
CPI——The number of coil courses of the fabric within 1 inch
WPI——The number of coil wales of the fabric within 1 inch
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50C——Total length of 50 coils (unit: mm)
S/1——Yarn count (imperial)
OZ/YD——Per yard Weight of fabric in ounces
CUTS – total number of needles of the machine
FEEDERS – total number of passes of the machine (number of loop forming systems)
2. Theoretical derivation
1. Yarn count is used to describe the density (diameter or fineness) of yarn, which is the ratio of weight to length. We usually use The yarn count system includes imperial (S/1), metric (Nm) and denier (D), and their mutual relationships are as follows:
S/1=0.591Nm
S/1=0.591Nm
S/1=5319D
For example: 150D≈35.46S/1
48Nm≈28.4S/1
Generally speaking:
The British count is used for cotton yarn (such as: COTTON, COTTON/WOOL, COTTON/POLY, COTTON/LINE);
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Male yarn is used for wool yarn (such as: 100% WOOL, ACRYLIC/WOOL, ACRYIC);
Denier is used for long yarns Silk (such as: FILAMENTPOLY, FILAMENTNYLON, CYARL, SILKLUREX).
According to the definition of Yingzhi, S/1=840YD÷LB, we can get the formula S/1=0.00059×L(mm)÷G(gm) to measure The yarn count requested by the customer.
For example: We measured the total weight of 12 cotton yarns with a length of 172MM to be 0.062gm, then we can calculate the yarn count as: 12×172×0.00059÷0.062= 19.6S/1-20S/1
2. Code weight
But we cannot know the original machine model GAUGE that produced the fabric. .
For example: A customer’s sample is 40S/1CottonPieceDyeSolidDOUBLEFACE (RIBM/C), and we measured its weight to be 219GM/㎡, WPI=37.5, CPI=88. If If the 18G34″ (1920CUTS) machine is produced, the door width is 1920÷37.5=51.2″, estimated to be 50-52″, and the code weight is 52×219×0.00082=9.34 (OZ/YD).
3. If the sample is too small and cannot be carved into a large or small circle to weigh it, we can only weigh the entire piece of cloth and measure its area. According to the formula GM/㎡= Weight (G) ÷ area (S), calculate the gram weight. You can use the same method as 2) to calculate the door width and code weight, but the data measured in this way is very inaccurate.
For example: a customer’s sample is 2cm×2cm, and the weight is 0.08g, and the weight per square meter is 0.08gm÷0.02m÷0.05m=200gm/㎡.
Note:
Because 2) and 3) cannot measure the shrinkage of incoming samples, good shrinkage is required in formal production. The actual production fabric width and weight It may be quite different from the analysis results.
Estimation of door width
A: Direct calculation method:
Fabric width = total number of needles that can be produced by the machine ÷WPI
For example: 20S/1CTNS/KJERSEYPDSOLID18G×30″ WPI=29
Looking at the machine model table, we can see that 2. GM/㎡ of 18G If we know the number of coils in one square meter of fabric and the weight of each coil, we can calculate the square meter weight of the fabric;
That is: total number of coils × unit coil Weight. Since we know the CPI and WPI of the fabric, we can calculate the total number of coils in square meters, that is: CPI × WPI × 39.37 × 39.37. Similarly, according to the definition of yarn count and the length of the unit coil, we can calculate each The weight of the coil, that is:
Length of the coil ÷ yarn count = (50C÷50000) × (453.6÷S/1÷840÷0.9114)
So the square meter weight is:
CPI×WPI×39.37×39.37×50C÷50000×453.6÷S/1÷840÷0.9114×1.018367
For example: 40S/1×2CottonPieceDyeSolidJersey20G×30” 9.75OZ/56-58” 205GM/㎡, CPI=45, WPI=31, 50C=160MM. According to the above formula, its weight is: 45×31×160÷40×2×0.018367=204.975(gm/㎡). In the standard, since the parameters used in the formula are artificially determined, there will be a corresponding deviation between the calculated weight and the standard weight, generally within 5%.
3. Each needle of the knitted fabric forms a vertical row, so the total number of needles of the machine divided by the WPI of the fabric is the width of the fabric.
4. Each mold can be knitted once on the machine to form one row, so the module number of the machine divided by the CPI is the maximum FEEDREPEAT.
3. Examples of formula application
1. Analysis of incoming samples Impact:
1) If the customer comes with enough samples (1 width and at least 1 yard), then we can directly weigh the code weight, gram weight, and quantity Calculate the CPI and WPI from the width, measure the yarn count, and count the total number of needles, from which you can know the GAUGE of the fabric produced. It can also test other related parameters, such as fabric shrinkage, PILLING, WETCROCKING, etc.
2) If the customer’s sample is not enough for a door width, but can engrave a large or small circle, then we can weigh the large or small circle in grams and measure the CPI and WPI, according to the formula: WIDTH=CUTS÷WPI, calculate the door width that can be produced; according to the formula: OZ/YD=WIDTH×GM/㎡×0.00082, the corresponding total number of needles is calculated to be 1680, and the door width of the above fabric types can be calculated Width:
width=100%.
This method is mostly used for fabric sample analysis.
Note: This is the total number of stitches that the machine can produce. For example, coarse yarn counts cannot use machines with too fine gauges, and fine yarn counts cannot use machines with too thick gauges. At the same time, the fabric type and machine model must be consistent. Such as:
RIBSOLID/FEEDM/C:
15G×34, 1596×2CUTS
18G×34, 1592×2CUTS
14G×34, 1416×2CTUS
INTERLOCKSOLID/FEED:
18G×30, 1728×2CUTS
22G×30, 2088 ×2CUTS
24G×30, 2304×2CUTS
28G×30, 2664×2CITS
INTERLOCKAUTO:
18G×30, 1680×2CUTS
22G×30, 2064×2CUTS
24G×30/22G×30, 2256×2CUTS
24G×33, 2496×2CUTS
B: Comparative calculation method (change GAUGE)
If the width and weight of the fabric are known, it is required to calculate the weight and shrinkage When calculating the remaining door widths that can be produced under changing circumstances, you can use the following formula:
Producible door widths = total number of needles that can be produced by the machine ÷ the number of existing machines Total number of needles It is known that the total number of needles for 18G×30″ is 1680, and the total number of needles for 20G×30″ is 1860. According to the formula: width=100%. Note: The precautions are the same as method A.
3. Calculation of the maximum FEEDREPEAT.
The basic calculation formula is: MAXREPEATOFFEED (B/W) = module number of the machine that can be produced ÷CPI
The key point here is: find out the module number of the machine that can be produced. For example, the RIB machine is 70F, the INTERLOCK machine is 84F, and the ordinary machine is 96F. For detailed machine types, refer to each company’s Actual model.
Examples:
1. 20S/1COTTONDK1×1RIBFEED259GM/㎡15G×34″ 64-66″ 14.0OZ/YDCPI=36. Because the module of the RIB machine is 70F, the maximum REPEATOFFEED for the above fabric types is: module ÷CPI=70÷36=1.94″
2 , 32S/1COTTONYDINTERLOCKFEED223GM/㎡18G×30″ 50-52″ CPI=75. Because the module of the INTERLOCK machine is 84F, the maximum REPEATOFFEED for the above fabric types is: module ÷ CPI = 84 ÷ 75 = 1.12″ (B/W).
3. 20S/1COTTONYDS/KPIQUEFEED20G× 30″ 14.0OZ/YD80-82″ 208GM/㎡CPI=64. Because the module of the ordinary machine is 96F, the maximum REPEATOFFEED for the above fabric types is: Modulus÷CPI÷2=96÷31÷2=1.5″( B/W).
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