Calculation method of fabric cost
Fabric cost = raw material cost + weaving cost + dyeing and printing finishing processing fee + inspection, rolling and packaging fee + tax + loss in each link
01 Raw material cost
Raw material cost =Amount of yarn used per meter×Yarn price
How to calculate the amount of yarn used per meter? We classify all fabrics into non-elastic fabrics, weft stretch fabrics, and four-way stretch fabrics to explain them respectively.
1. Non-elastic fabrics
The warp density of the gray fabric = the warp density of the finished product × the finished product Door Width/Grey Fabric Door Width Most of the fabric samples or specifications given to us by customers are finished products and have been dyed. We need to restore the finished product specifications to the gray cloth specifications.
Weft density of gray fabric = weft density of finished product × (1-Dyeing shrinkage)
Note: Dyeing shrinkage, approx. 2-5% of 100% cotton, 3-8% of polyester-cotton, 8-15% of 100% polyester. The thinner the fabric, the greater the dyeing shrinkage. Machine-cylinder dyeing has a greater shrinkage than long-car dyeing. The finished fabric will shrink during steaming. The smaller the rate requirement, the greater the dyeing shrinkage.
Let’s give an example. For example, the specifications of the regular variety of cotton gauze card gray fabric are 21s×16s/128×60 with a width of 63 inches (note the specifications of the yarn The unit of count is English count, the unit of density is inch, and the unit of door width is also inch. Some specifications are not in this unit and can be converted. For example, the unit of chemical fiber is D, then the number of D × the number of English count = 5314, when the D number is 150, converted to imperial count = 5314/150 = 35.4 (branch)
Formula:
The amount of yarn used in warp yarn = (warp density , that is, 60×63×0.65/16=153.6 grams
In the formula:
0.65 is a coefficient, a very rough one Coefficient, there are many factors that affect the size of this coefficient, such as weaving shrinkage, warp elongation due to tension, loss, etc.
The usage of each meter of cloth here The yarn amount is not equal to the gram weight per meter of the finished fabric. There is also a coefficient, generally 0.88. We calculated that the yarn amount is 249.6+153.6 = 403.2 grams/meter, and the gram weight of the finished product is approximately 403.2×0.88 =355 grams/meter. Meter, square meter weight is 355/1.5 (door width) = 237g/square meter. This coefficient varies greatly for different fabrics. During dyeing, there are many factors that affect this coefficient, such as shrinkage, alkali loss, pre- Processing, etc., many times it is necessary to rely on experience to summarize this coefficient.
Assuming that the price of 21-count cotton yarn is 20,000 yuan/ton = 0.02 yuan/g, then the warp yarn cost It is: 249.6×0.02=4.992 yuan/meter; similarly, assuming that the price of 16-count cotton yarn is 18,000 yuan/ton, then the cost of yarn in the weft direction is 153.6×0.018=2.76 yuan/meter. The raw material cost of fabrics with this specification is 4.992 +2.76=7.75 yuan/meter.
The price of raw materials can be found in the textile raw material market conditions of major textile websites, or you can call the corresponding production factory. Some Yarns are relatively special, such as some slub yarns, yarns with special blending proportions, and yarns for special purposes. These are not in stock on the market and need to be spun to order. The price is more expensive than conventional yarns, which also affects the cost and delivery time.
2. Weft elastic fabrics
Conventional weft elastic fabrics have corresponding gray fabrics. For example:
100% cotton stretch poplin finished product:
The corresponding gray fabric for 40×40+40D/133×7257/58 inches is 96×72 machine door width 84 inches
100% cotton stretch yarn card finished product:
16×16+70D/120× The corresponding gray fabric for 4048/50 inches is 90×40 with a door width of 72 inches
100% cotton elastic direct tribute finished product:
The corresponding gray fabric of 32×32+40D/190×8057/58 inches is 130×80 with a door width of 84 inches.
Others are not the reduction of conventional weft stretch fabrics. The rate is calculated based on this ratio. The general width reduction rate is about 30%. Restore the specifications of the finished product to the specifications of the gray fabric, and then calculate the amount of yarn and raw materials according to the formula for calculating the amount of yarn for non-elastic fabrics. cost.
3. Four-way elastic fabric
The method is the same, but also the fabric specifications of the finished product Return to the machine specifications of the gray fabric, and then calculate it according to the calculation method without elasticity.
For example, for cotton four-sided elastic, the specifications of the finished product are 32s/2+70D×32s/2+70d, the density is 100×60/inch, and the door width is 46 inches. It can be reduced to The machine specifications of the gray fabric should be a density of 65×46 and a door width of 72 inches (the shrinkage rate in the weft direction is 35% and the shrinkage rate in the warp direction is 23%, usually for long tie-dyeing). Just follow the previous calculation formula. Calculate the amount of yarn used: (65+46) × 72 × 0.65/16 = 325g/m (if the yarn counts in the warp and weft directions are the same, add the warp and weft densities), that is, the amount of yarn used per meter is 325 grams.
Another example is polyester four-way elastic. The common finished product specifications are 200d+40d×200d+40 and the density is 118×The width of 80/inch is 57/58, and the machine specification for reducing it into gray fabric should be that the warp and weft density is 82×56 (all-polyester four-way stretch is generally dyed with an overflow cylinder, and the shrinkage rate is about 30% in both the warp and weft directions) The machine door width is 84 inches, and the count converted from 200d should be 5314/200=26.6. The yarn amount is calculated according to the yarn amount calculation formula: (82+56)×84×0.65/26.6=283g/m.
Other T/R four-sided bullets and T/C four-sided bullets are all the same, except that the shrinkage in the longitude and latitude directions is different. The specific shrinkage data is required. Consult someone with relevant production experience.
There are also some special fabrics, such as warp stretch grosgrain, high shrinkage fabrics, wrinkled fabrics, etc. I have relatively little contact with them and have no practical experience in this area.
According to the amount of yarn used in the gray fabric, and taking into account the warp shrinkage of dyeing, alkali loss and other factors, the gram weight of the finished product can be roughly calculated. This theoretical calculation is There is a big difference between the gram weight and the actual gram weight. The general error is about plus or minus 20 grams/meter, which can only be used as a reference.
02 Weaving cost
The weaving cost is mainly related to the weft density, and secondly to the loom .
For example, for general cotton air-jet looms, it is usually said that “one cent per shuttle” means: divide the weft density by 2.54, then multiply by 0.1, which is the weaving cost. For example, the conventional variety of cotton poplin is 40×40 133×72/inch, the weft density is 72, and the calculated weaving fee is 72/2.54×0.1=2.83 yuan/meter. If it is made of all-chemical filament without sizing, the weaving fee can be calculated as 8 points.
Some varieties are more difficult to weave, and the weaving fee is higher. For larger door widths, the weaving fee is higher. The higher the loom, the higher the weaving fee. Expensive, shuttle looms are the cheapest, while projectile looms and jacquard looms are the most expensive.
The processing fee is cheaper in the off-season than in the peak season. The first half of the year is the off-season and the second half of the year is the peak season. Large factories, large-scale factories, and factories with standardized management have better quality assurance than small factories, and the processing fees are also more expensive. The appropriate factory should be selected according to the quality requirements of different customers.
03 Dyeing and printing finishing processing fee
Generally, cotton is dyed with long lathes and reactive dyeing with full process. The dyeing fee for spring and summer fabrics is about 1.5 yuan/meter, and the dyeing fee for autumn and winter fabrics is about 2.8 yuan.
Ordinary polyester fabrics are dyed in a machine vat. Spring and summer fabrics cost about 1 yuan/meter, and autumn and winter fabrics cost about 2 yuan/meter.
Ordinary printing depends on the number of colors and the width of the door, and the processing fee ranges from 2 yuan to 5 yuan.
The embroidery processing fee is calculated based on the number of needles per meter. Generally, the flat embroidery fee for ordinary small machines is 0.03 yuan/thousand needles, and for large machine embroidery, For sequin embroidery, towel embroidery, water-soluble embroidery, chain embroidery, patch embroidery, and multi-color embroidery, the processing fee will increase more or less.
In short, the higher the quality requirements, the more expensive the corresponding processing fees will be.
When calculating these processing fees, don’t forget to include shrinkage and loss. For example, cotton four-way elastic fabric has a warp shrinkage of 23% and the dyeing fee is 4.5 yuan/meter. If the gray fabric is 15 yuan/meter, then the dyeing cost is: 15/(1-23%) + 4.5 = 23.98 yuan/meter. meters, plus 2% loss (seams during production, etc.), 23.98×1.02=24.46 yuan/meter.
Other special fabrics, such as nylon fabrics, Tencel, Modal, etc., or special processing fees, such as Teflon three-proof treatment, embroidery processing fees, coating, Compounding, etc., you need to consult the corresponding production and processing enterprise in detail to get the accurate cost.
04 Other costs
The cost of inspection, rolling and packaging is generally 0.1 yuan/meter, value-added The tax is 17%. For example, if the profit is 1 yuan/meter, then a tax of 0.17 yuan/meter will be paid. If the customer does not need an invoice, it can generally be 3% cheaper.
It should be noted that the theoretical calculation here is only suitable for customized varieties and fabrics with special specifications. If it is a conventional variety, the price on the market is generally cheaper than the theoretically calculated price. The actual price is based on market conditions and can basically be found on major textile websites. Because of the large quantity, the processing fees in each link are cheap and the loss is small. , and some are cheaper if they cut corners, such as less weight, less warp and weft density, thin yarn count, poor dyeing quality, poor yarn dryness and poor strength, etc.
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