1. Woven fabrics
The fabric formed by the yarns of the two systems (or directions) being perpendicular to each other and interlaced according to certain rules is a woven fabric (also called woven fabric). fabric).
(Picture: The principle difference between woven and knitted)
Basic organizations are various types of organizations The simplest and most basic organization in the world is the basis for various changes and fancy organizations. The basic weaves include plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
1 Plain weave
Weave parameters Plain weave is the weave of all fabrics The simplest one. Its organizational rule is one up and down, and the two roots alternate to form a complete organization.
Features: Plain weave has the most interlacing points of warp and weft yarns, and the yarns buckle a lot, so the fabric surface is flat and the body is stiff. , the texture is firm and the appearance is tight, but the feel is hard and the elasticity is small. In actual use, various methods can be used according to different requirements, such as different thicknesses of warp and weft yarns, changes in warp and weft yarn density, and different combinations and configurations of twist, twist direction and color, etc., to obtain various special products. appearance effect.
Commonly used plain weave fabrics Plain weave fabrics are widely used in cotton, wool, silk, and linen fabrics, such as various plain cloths with flat surfaces, fine textured textiles, poplin with clear rhombus particles, and obvious unevenness. Four grosgrains with horizontal stripes, seersucker and georgette with crepe effect, and Verridin, Palis, thin tweed, flannel, etc. with hidden grid effect.
2 Twill weave
Weave parameters Twill weave is characterized by short floating lengths in the warp direction or short floating lengths in the weft direction, which are stepped in sequence. arranged in a pattern to form a continuous diagonal line on the surface of the fabric. The movement of each warp yarn in its organization is the same, but the starting point is different.
Characteristics Twill weave can be divided into warp surface, weft surface and double-sided twill. If the surface of the fabric has a majority of warp weave points, such as 2/1, it is a warp twill. On the contrary, if the weft weave points account for a majority, such as 1/3, it is a weft twill. The opposite of warp twill is weft twill, but in the opposite direction. The proportions of the two texture points on the front and back are the same, but the diagonal directions are opposite, which is called double-sided twill. There are also differences in the degree of inclination of the twill lines. The twill weave uses the intersection angle α between the twill line and the horizontal line to represent the twill inclination angle. As α becomes larger, it means the greater the warp density and the steeper the twill line. The twill when α>450 is called sharp twill, the twill when α<450 is called slow twill, and when α=450, it means that the warp and weft density of the fabric are equal. Twill weave has fewer interweaving points than plain weave and has floating length. Its fabric is softer, thicker and has better gloss than plain weave, but its fastness is not as good as plain weave. The twill lines on its surface can be made clear and obvious according to the choice of twist direction and warp and weft density ratio. Or the texture is plump and prominent, even and straight.
Common twill fabrics include twill with flat texture, serge, khaki with prominent ribs, gabardine, etc.
3 Satin weave
Tissue parameters and characteristics Satin weave is the most complex of the basic tissues. Its characteristic is that each warp yarn (or weft yarn) has only one single weave point (warp weave point or weft weave point). There is a certain distance between the separate weave points on two adjacent yarns and is separated by two Covered by warp floating threads or weft floating threads, the surface of the fabric is almost entirely composed of a kind of warp floating threads or weft floating threads, so the cloth surface is smooth and even, with good luster and soft texture.
Common satin fabric satin weave has a wide range of applications. In cotton and wool fabrics, five-piece satin weaves are mostly used to obtain Zhigong, Henggong, Henggong satin, etc.; in silk fabrics, eight-piece satin weaves are mostly used to obtain various plain satins and floral satins with better luster. Satin or satin patterned fabric.
4 Changed weave
Changed weave is based on the original weave with changes (such as changing the number of yarn cycles, Various derived structures obtained by floating length, flying number, twill line direction, etc.). Changed weaves can be divided into three categories: plain weave changes (including heavy flat weaves, square weaves, etc.), twill weave changes (including reinforced twill, composite twill, angle twill, mountain-shaped twill, rhombus twill, reed mat twill, etc.), satin weave Change the structure (including enhanced satin, modified satin, etc.).
Fabrics with plain weave changes, some have a convex stripe effect in appearance, and are mostly used to design poplin, linen, ruffle, etc., while others have a smooth appearance. It feels soft and elastic and has good luster. It is often used as the edge tissue of fabrics such as clothing and screens. The appearance of twill change weave fabrics shows various twill effects. Some show multiple twills in parallel, some are divided into yin and yang, and some show herringbone, reed mat shapes, etc. Therefore, they are widely used in cotton, wool, silk �� and other tissues
In addition to the above-mentioned tissues, there are also many tissues such as warp fleece and warp bias in warp knitted fabrics. These tissues are widely used in underwear, outerwear, sweaters, etc. No introduction here.
3. Non-woven fabrics
Non-woven fabrics, also known as non-woven fabrics. It refers to a fiber layer composed of a certain orientation or random arrangement without traditional spinning, weaving or knitting processes, or the fiber layer is intertwined with yarn, and is connected through mechanical hooking, stitching or chemical, hot melt and other methods. made fabric. Compared with other clothing materials, non-woven fabrics have the advantages of short production process, high output, low cost, wide fiber application, excellent product performance, and wide range of uses. Non-woven fabrics are developing rapidly and have become an emerging industry and are increasingly used in various fields of the clothing industry. 
(Picture: Non-woven fabric)
The structure of non-woven fabrics can be divided into the following categories according to the composition and formation method of the fiber web:
1 Non-woven fabric with fiber mesh structure
(1) The fiber bonding method is to lay short fibers into a sheet-like fiber mesh, and pass The fiber web itself or the vertical and horizontal overlaps bond the fibers to each other to form a cloth. Including adhesive bonding and hot melt bonding.
a. Adhesive bonding refers to using synthetic resin or synthetic fiber adhesive to fix the fiber layer, so that the fiber web is solidified and bonded to become an inseparable non-woven fabric. According to the adhesive type and processing method, it can be divided into point bonding, sheet film bonding, mass bonding and local bonding structures. This type of non-woven fabric has good air permeability, but has a hard feel. It is mostly used in wall coverings and disposable products.
b. Hot-melt bonding refers to adding hot-melt fibers to the fiber web in advance. When the overlapping fiber web passes through the heating calender, the heat in the area where the rolling points or embossing occurs is The melted fibers create a reinforcement that bonds to other fibers. This kind of non-woven fabric has good filtering performance, elasticity and bulkiness, as well as good air permeability and hygroscopicity. It is suitable for making winter clothing wadding, bedding material, filter cloth, automotive cloth and tufted carpet base. cloth.
(2) Bonded non-woven fabrics with entangled fibers refer to overlapping appropriate fiber webs and using a certain method (such as needle punching, stitching, etc.) to make A non-woven fabric with a felt-like structure produced by the fibers being well entangled with each other. According to the mode of action, it can be divided into acupuncture, spunlace, spunbond and braided non-woven fabrics.
a. Needle-punched non-woven fabrics use thousands of crochet hooks with a special structure to move up and down repeatedly through the fiber web, turning the entire fiber web into a dense felt-like shape that is entangled, intertwined, and inseparable from each other. Non-woven fabric. This type of product has a wide range of uses and can be widely used in geotextiles, bed blankets, filter materials, needle felts and artificial leather base fabrics, etc.
b. Spunlaced nonwoven fabrics are also called needle-punched nonwoven fabrics. It uses many beams of extremely strong water flow to shoot at the fiber mesh to strengthen the cloth. It has high strength, plump feel and good permeability, and is suitable for clothing linings, shoulder pads, etc.
c. When the spunbond non-woven fabric synthetic fiber solution is pressed out from the spinning head to make filaments, the generated static electricity and high-pressure airflow are used to make the fibers fall on the metal curtain randomly and messily. , and then heat-set through a heated roller to make a non-woven fabric. Spunbond non-woven fabrics have the advantages of air permeability and water permeability, and are widely used as insulation materials in agriculture and animal husbandry.
d. Stitch-bonded non-woven fabrics refer to randomly arranged fiber webs and are sewn in multiple ways with a multi-head sewing machine to form a non-woven fabric with a tighter structure. This type of fabric has an appearance and performance close to traditional clothing materials, and is widely used in clothing fabrics, artificial fur base fabrics, velvet linings, etc.
2 Yarn-type stitch-bonded structure non-woven fabrics
(1) Yarn layer – stitch-bonded yarn type Stitch-bonded non-woven fabrics are layered with warp and weft yarns, and the stitch-bonded yarns are woven according to the warp and flat weave to reinforce the non-woven fabric of the yarn layer. The fabric has the appearance of organic fabrics and knitted fabrics, has good dimensional stability and high strength, and is suitable for outerwear fabrics.
(2) Yarn layer – terry-type stitch-bonded non-woven fabric, the weft yarns are laid into a network and reinforced by the braided chain structure formed by the stitch-bonded yarns. The terry yarn is inserted in sections in the stitching area to give the cloth a raised terry shape. Can be used for decorative fabrics, clothing materials, etc.
Application fields of non-woven fabrics Although the rise of non-woven fabrics is only half a century old, it is developing rapidly. Compared with ordinary woven fabrics, due to its unique structure and processing methods, it has broad application prospects. Its products have been widely used in many fields such as civilian clothing, decorative fabrics, industrial fabrics, medical materials, military industry and high-end technology. There are hundreds of products developed, such as various clothing linings, curtains, Disposable products for medical care, geotextiles, filter cloths, cushions, wall coverings, carpets, baby diapers, packaging materials and crop insulation sheds, etc. </p
