Recently, some foreign brand companies such as H&M and Nike have claimed that there is a “forced labor” problem in Xinjiang, and their statements of refusing to use Xinjiang cotton products have attracted global public attention. Some time ago, reporters also received reports from the heads of some Xinjiang cotton companies, saying that since last year, all signed export orders for cotton products were suddenly cancelled, and there were certain problems in business operations. Why do well-run companies suddenly face such difficulties?
Why is White Cotton on the “blacklist”?
The reason is that in August 2020, the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association announced that all Xinjiang cotton companies will cancel the guarantee certification indefinitely. The reason for canceling the certification is that the association believes that Xinjiang cotton companies There is a problem of “forced labor”.
Why did Swiss Better Cotton Development Association come to such a conclusion? CCTV reporters found Wu Yan, who works at the Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association.
Wu Yan, Chief Representative of the Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association: The Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton was officially established in 2012. I have served as the chief representative for more than 8 years. They all lead the team to conscientiously and strictly implement the “Better Cotton” standards.
Wu Yan said that as to whether Xinjiang cotton meets the production standards of “Better Cotton”, the Shanghai Representative Office has been following the “triple certification” of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association during the review process. mechanism”.
Wu Yan, chief representative of the Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association: First, the producer unit conducts a self-assessment, and then our team in Shanghai conducts a second-party credibility assessment Audit, and finally a separate verification report issued by a third-party audit agency. In response to overseas public opinion about “forced labor”, our Shanghai representative office conducted a strict review of projects in Xinjiang.
After strict review, Wu Yan’s team confirmed that there is no so-called “forced labor” problem in Xinjiang.
Wu Yan, Chief Representative of the Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association: Two investigation reports were submitted to the headquarters. In addition, we also summarized the results of third-party testing agencies such as Swiss-CSTC The inspection reports over the years are submitted to the headquarters. We have also repeatedly reiterated to international non-governmental organizations and other relevant stakeholders that we have not found a single case of “forced labor” in China.
The SGS-CSTC Standards Technical Services Co., Ltd. mentioned by Wu Yan is an internationally recognized inspection and certification agency and has a good understanding of the production and operation of Xinjiang’s cotton textile industry. However, the headquarters of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association ignored the assessment reports submitted by its Shanghai representative office and CSGS, claiming that Xinjiang cotton companies had so-called “forced labor” and indefinitely canceled the “Better Cotton” certification of Xinjiang cotton companies without any reason. .
Wu Yan, chief representative of the Shanghai Representative Office of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association: Our headquarters’ decision to suspend certification will actually prevent nearly 500,000 tons of Xinjiang cotton from entering international cotton textiles Production supply chain.
How to draw the conclusion about “forced labor”? Frequent pressure from so-called “human rights organizations”
Why does the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association insist on ignoring the facts? How did this conclusion of “forced labor” come about? The reporter learned that some so-called “human rights organizations” participating in the Better Cotton investigation working group have frequently put pressure on the headquarters of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association during the investigation. They are also the initiators of the so-called “forced labor” problem in Xinjiang.
The “Uyghur Human Rights Project” is a non-governmental organization headquartered in the United States. It has long received funding from the “National Endowment for Democracy” in the United States and has carried out negative propaganda activities involving Xinjiang. It has issued There are a large number of reports that are inconsistent with the actual human rights protection and economic and social development of Xinjiang, and even actively promote extremist and separatist ideas. The head of the organization, Luisa Greu, once served as the vice president of the National Endowment for Democracy in the United States.
“Human Rights Watch” is known as the world’s largest human rights non-governmental organization. The Times of the United Kingdom once criticized the organization for only caring about countries designated as hostile by the United States, selectively reporting on cases of so-called human rights abuses in these countries, and adhering to double standards. On human rights issues involving China, the organization ignores the facts and does its best to smear them.
The “Fair Labor Association” and “International Labor Rights Forum” carry out labor projects for some developing countries such as China. The reports they publish often attack and discredit the human rights protection of these countries. . Among them, the “Fair Labor Association” is very active on Xinjiang-related issues. It issued a “Statement on China Procurement and Forced Labor Risks” in March 2020, pressuring companies from various countries to give up purchasing raw materials produced in Xinjiang.
Swiss Better Cotton Development Association Shanghai Representative Office ProjectManager Liu Haoran: “Human rights organizations” require the Better Cotton Association to suspend Better Cotton certification in Xinjiang, and also require the Better Cotton Association to declare that any decision made by the Better Cotton Association has nothing to do with human rights organizations.
The reporter learned that the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association headquarters made such an unreasonable decision. In addition to the interference of human rights organizations, it also has a lot to do with the influence of the Better Cotton Council. Big relationship.
The decision-making body of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association is the Better Cotton Council, and its main source of income is the representatives of Marks & Spencer, Levi’s, Supima and other brands among the council members , most of these brand representatives are from European and American countries. In addition, USAID is an important sponsor of the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association. This US government agency controls the internal decision-making of the Better Cotton Council and constantly instructs the Swiss Better Cotton Development Association headquarters to take improper actions against Xinjiang cotton companies.
Throughout 2020, the U.S. government has frequently suppressed Xinjiang’s cotton industry. From the U.S. Department of the Treasury requiring U.S. companies to complete the liquidation and divestment of 52 cotton companies in Xinjiang, to the Department of Homeland Security’s Customs and Border Protection bureau issuing an import ban on Xinjiang cotton companies, several measures have almost blocked the export channels of Xinjiang cotton products.
Zhang Biao, person in charge of Xinjiang Yuli County Zhongwang Industry and Trade Co., Ltd.: If there is a long-term ban on Xinjiang cotton and the purchase of Xinjiang cotton is stopped, there may be greater risks for the intermediate processing enterprises of Xinjiang cotton. , workers’ employment opportunities, farmers’ cultivation, and income may all be affected.
Mei Xinyu, a researcher at the Institute of International Trade and Economic Cooperation of the Ministry of Commerce: Some anti-China forces in the West are hyping up Xinjiang-related issues in an attempt to sanction Xinjiang-related companies and industries, but they have adopted this Such measures cannot achieve the results they hope for.
I hope these overseas brands can recognize that China is the most reliable global production center and a rapidly growing consumer market. I hope overseas brand owners can think calmly, calmly and rationally about what is the best choice for them. </p
