Factions of Embroidery
Suzhou embroidery
Su embroidery has a long history and has reached considerable scale in the Song Dynasty. In Suzhou, there are embroidery workshops, embroidery lanes, rolling embroidery workshops, embroidery thread alleys and other alleys where production is concentrated.
Su embroidery in the Ming Dynasty has gradually formed its own unique style and has a wide influence. The Qing Dynasty was at its peak, and most of the royal embroidery at that time was made by Suzhou embroidery artists; folk embroidery was even more colorful. In the late Qing Dynasty, Shen Shou pioneered “imitation embroidery”, which was well-known at home and abroad. She successively taught apprentices in Suzhou, Beijing, Tianjin, Nantong and other places, and trained a new generation of people. In the 1930s, Yang Shouyu, director of the painting and embroidery department of Danyang Zhengze Women’s Vocational School, invented random stitch embroidery and enriched Su embroidery stitches. Suzhou embroidery is famous for its fineness and elegance. The pattern is beautiful, the color is quiet, the stitching is flexible, the embroidery is meticulous, and the image is vivid. The technical characteristics can be summarized as “flat, light, even, even, harmonious, smooth, fine and dense”. There are dozens of stitching methods, the commonly used ones include straight stitching, rushing stitching, set stitching, net embroidery, yarn embroidery, etc. Embroidery products are divided into two categories: one is practical products, including quilt covers, pillowcases, embroidered clothes, theater clothes, stage rugs, cushions, etc.; the other is appreciation products, including table screens, hanging scrolls, screens, etc. The materials are widely used, including flowers, animals, figures, landscapes, calligraphy, etc. The double-sided embroidery “Goldfish” and “Kitten” are representative works of Su embroidery. Su embroidery has been given as gifts to heads of state more than 80 times, exhibited in nearly 100 countries and regions, and more than 100 people have gone abroad for embroidery performances. In 1982, he won the National Arts and Crafts Hundred Flowers Gold Cup Award, and the double-sided embroidery “Goldfish” won the gold medal at the 56th “Poznan International Fair” in 1984.
Su Embroidery School: Hunan Embroidery
Hunan embroidery is the general name for embroidery centered in Changsha, Hunan. It was developed on the basis of Hunan folk embroidery and absorbed the advantages of Su embroidery and Cantonese embroidery. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, many women were engaged in embroidery in Changsha County. In the 24th year of the reign of Emperor Guangxu (1898), Wu Hanchen, the son of the outstanding embroiderer Hu Lianxian, opened the first “Wu Caixia Embroidery Workshop” for self-embroidery and sales in Changsha. His works It is excellent and spreads all over the country, making Hunan embroidery famous throughout the country. During the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, Yang Shizhuo of Ningxiang advocated Hunan folk embroidery. He went deep into the embroidery workshop for a long time, drew embroidery manuscripts, and created a variety of stitching techniques, which improved the artistic level of Hunan embroidery. In the early days, Hunan embroidery was mainly used to embroider daily decorations. Later, it gradually added paintings-themed works. The characteristic of Hunan embroidery is that it uses velvet thread (no velvet thread) to embroider, the splitting of the thread is meticulous, and the embroidered suede patterns are realistic. Often based on Chinese paintings, the colors are rich and bright, with great emphasis on the yin and yang shades of the colors, the shapes are vivid and lifelike, and the style is bold. It once had the reputation of “embroidering flowers can produce fragrance, embroidering birds can hear sounds, embroidering tigers can run, and embroidering people can express emotions”. Hunan embroidery uses special curly hair needles to embroider lions, tigers and other animals with strong, powerful hair. In 1982, Hunan embroidery won the Gold Cup in the National Arts and Crafts Hundred Flowers Award.
Embroidery genre: Cantonese embroidery
Cantonese embroidery is also called “Guangzhou embroidery”. Generally speaking, it refers to the embroidery of Guangdong in the past 2 or 3 centuries. Guangdong embroidery has a long history. It is said that it was founded by ethnic minorities and originated from the same source as the brocade made by the Li ethnic group. In the early Qing Dynasty, Qu Dajun’s “Guangdong Xinyu” and Zhu Qiqian’s “Cun Su Tang Silk Embroidery Record” both described: As far back as the Ming Dynasty, Cantonese embroidery used peacock feathers to make the embroidery embroidery, making the embroidery eye-catching, and used horsetail hair to wrap velvet. Threads enable the Cantonese embroidery outlining technique to perform better; “the needles are laid as thin as a millimeter, and the rules are not forgotten when writing…the outline patterns are natural and neat”. By the Qing Dynasty, Cantonese embroidery had achieved greater development. Among domestic collections, the Forbidden City collection is the largest and most representative. The composition is complex but not chaotic, the colors are rich and eye-catching, the stitches are even, the stitches are changeable, the texture is clear, and waterways are well preserved. There are many types of Guangdong embroidery. Appreciation items mainly include banners, hanging screens, table screens, etc.; practical items include quilt covers, pillowcases, bed lintels, shawls, headscarves, table curtains and embroidered clothes, etc. Generally, they mostly paint flowers and birds from nature, which are full of decorative taste. They often use phoenix, peony, pine crane, ape, deer, chicken, goose, etc. as themes, and mix them into the picture. Women’s sleeves and skirts are mostly made of broken branches and flowers all over the ground. The velvet is very thin and flat against the surface. Color lines with strong contrast are used for color matching, usually red and green, which are eye-catching and suitable for creating a happy and lively atmosphere. In the 18th century Nasi embroidery, the bottom layer was mostly lined with sheepskin gold (called “leather gold embroidery” in Guangdong), which shimmered with gold and was particularly exquisite. In 1982, Guangdong embroidery won the National Arts and Crafts Hundred Flowers Gold Cup Award for its works such as “Morning Light” and “A Hundred Birds Paying Attention to the Phoenix”.
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